looks really good... i think i might do something similar... thanks for the inspiration...


and now for the joke part:
you know some newb is gonna ask so i might as well as say it now before anyone else beats me to it....

"will this mod void your warranty?"

 

expect 3-5, although i dont believe that claim. It's probably more around 10. Actually, youll have more drivetrain loss with the hazards on, as its taking more power away from the engine. Thats a really good question about the grounding kit. Maybe someone has the answer for that?

Good luck with the 1/4 time, you wont find it with this mod, because while it may give 3-5...10...you lose it all with the hazards being on.

Sucks.

 

looks good

 

pretty cool, I would never think to do that. Did you take the button out of the dash or leave it in when you painted it?

 

remember, easiest way to boost HP is to get a wash and oil change just like in Gran Turismo

 

Actually, smooth finishes add drag. A bad roller paint job or a primer/surfacer paint coat will make it faster.

 

Looks good

 

nice one

 

wow, but for how simple it is nice work.

 

i like it better..the red not so nice for the hazard and the clock as well

 

Here's a pic of the paint I used. It's DuPont "Trim Paint".. supposed to be used for black exterior trim pieces (like a plastic bumper, mirror, or something), so I figure it'll hold up just fine for an interior piece.

Definitely remove the switch from the dash before painting!

Process:
- Remove the trim plate around the radio/hvac controls (pull the HVAC knobs off, then remove the screws and give the panel a swift yank)
- Remove the screws that hold the long plastic trim piece in (they were hidden behind the radio trim plate that you just removed)
- I can't remember for sure, but you may also need to remove the trim piece around the cluster too. I think it might be blocking the left end of the long plastic trim piece. If so, it's just a couple screws on the top of the cluster trim piece to get that out. BUT BE CAREFUL... it's easy to scratch the IP top pad material when you pull out the cluster trim piece if you're not careful about it.
- The long plastic trim piece is still held in with a boatload of metal clips, so *carefully* tug it out. You don't need to remove the thing completely.. just enough to get your hand behind the hazard switch and push it out.
- It may be possible to avoid removing all those trim panels if you instead remove the radio, then just reach up to push out the hazard switch. I can't remember if there is a wall there to block you or not.
- The hazard switch is just a snap fit. If you push it from behind, it should pop out of the front of the trim piece. Then just unplug the electrical connector and remove it.
- You can now re-assemble your IP completely, just leaving the connector hanging out the hole. After you paint your switch, you can just plug it in and snap it into place.
- Mask the switch with lots of tape (sides, back, etc.).
- Somehow mask the triangle neatly. I went a little overboard, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist. First, I traced the triangle shape onto a thin piece of paper. Then I laid the paper onto a roll of masking tape and cut the triangle out with an exacto knife. Then I took the triangular piece of masking tape and stuck it on the switch It took a few tries, but eventually I made a triangle that covered the graphic with an even, straight overlap.
- Paint it. I think I did 3 light coats over an hour or so, then let it dry for another hour or two. Don't pile the paint on so thickly that the triangle will have a built up seam of paint at the edge. Just put on enough to get rid of the red color.
- Remove the tape and install your de-uglied switch.

Enjoy!

 

Thanks..my next project