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Sound Deadening and Audio Q's?

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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 07:05 PM
  #1  
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From: So. Cali 909
Sound Deadening and Audio Q's?

Ok I have used the search function but didn't find anything like what I'm asking. Basically I'm gonna put in a mid range sound system, I'm on a slight budget. I'm not going for spl or anything I just want some pretty good SQ. Its not so much my exhaust noise that bugs me, although it is loud as ****, its the road noise as well. I wanna try and curtail that. I wanna be able to hear my stereo over my exhaust without the speakers distorting, you know just a good daily driver stereo. Right now I have two infinity 10's and a mono alpine amp. I'm looking into picking up some infinity perfect 6.1 components and the infinity 2-way coaxials for the back. I'll also pick up a four channel for the speakers, and its looking like it will to be infinity because I found a guy out in OC through Ebay who must get these pro-deal'd or something. They are great prices....

Anyways I was planning on deadining the front door, and front door only for the 6.5 component because my door kinda thump/whump/rattles already on the stocks. While looking at Second Skin's products I came across the liquid deading that they offer. Basically there are two levels, the first being thin enough to spray, the second having to brush on.
http://secondskinaudio.com/products/...hp?productid=3
http://secondskinaudio.com/products/...p?productid=12

From what I'm reading this stuff is lighter than mat's, and offers pretty dang good sound deadening. What I was thinking about doing is this: When I rip out my carpet to run the amp wiring, I would also remove all the factory sound deadener, I would then apply this stuff in its place . I know it would not dead near as much sound as it would if I sprayed this on top. However I'm attempting to deaden sound without applying gobs of weight to the car. As it is I will already add nearly 60-70 pounds from the sound system (two subs, a box, 2 amps, and wiring). I don't want to add another 50 with deadener. If however I can remove 20-30 pounds of sludge from the car, and add 50, then with a net gain of only 20-30 lbs as long as it was quieter I would be happy.

Basically is it obscene to remove the factory deadener to apply aftermarket stuff? Will my gains be noticeable for the price? Should I just leave the factory stuff and add 1 thin coat of aftermarket instead?

Thanks
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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From: montgomery al
Good luck getting the factory applied "gunk" out, it's on there quite well. In fact, the only reason I'd scrape it out would be for a track only car. The amount of time/effort = result to then re-aply liquid deadening isn't going to blow you away. Liquid deadening is a good base layer below extra mat, and to reach those areas mat just cant reach. Use enough, and you will gain weight, as two-three coats is usually needed for best results.

Your best bet to get the maximum deadening for weight trade-off is lightweight mat on the doors and rear deck, and the trunk floors, etc. Your set-up seems good, I have listened to perfects(50-100watts) in two different cars, they were decent.

If weight is a concern over spl, I would ditch one 10, and just go with a single 10. You will have good if not better sql, and still hear plenty bass. The weight savings of ditching that big box and a sub would be significant. And besides marginal rear fill, ditch the rear co-axials. Focus on your front image.


Good luck!
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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From: So. Cali 909
Thanks silver. I was really considering ditching the 10, like reaaaaaaaaaaaaaally thinking about it, but I already have the 2 10's mounted in the box from a previous car. I would have to buy a new box, and since I would only run 1 sub I would get a higher quality one.... so there goes another few hundred

Thanks for the info on the sound deadener though. And I've been told I should focus on my front stage and run nothing in the rear, spend the extra cash on some CDT's instead of the perfects. But I have people ride in my back, and I do like some rear fill a little as I'm not super hardcore about SQ. That combined with the fact that a pair of 6.5 coaxial infinitys are like 30bucks online.... well I don't mind spending 30 bucks ya know? It would however allow me to give better cleaner power to the fronts if I didn't amp the rears....

So what do you think about perfects or CDT's up front running off of a 2 channel or a bridged 4, then the rear speakers running off of HU power only?

edit: also crutchfield says only the 5 1/4 perfects will fit. I assume I'll have to use spacers for the 6.1 perfects, but I definately don't want to fab kick panels or anything..... so is it possible to get them in only using spacers?
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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From: montgomery al
You should be fine with spacers up front for 6s. Crutchfield states 5 1/4 because they factor in co-axial height in to their limits. A lot of 6.5 co-axs have a tweeter height that hits the panel. Plain 6.5 mids will be fine with some spacers, you may even get lucky on a drop in fit. Watch your depth for baskets though. Tweeters in the factory location are ok, but I would recommend experimenting with final tweeter placement once everything is wired! Use enough extra length and try them close to the woofers, and elsewhere. You will need to fab up a bracket/holder for factory location as the factory tweeter location isn't made for a large aftermarket housing. Tweeter location is important!

CDTs are popular because they are popular. As were other brands that have phased in and out with the times. MBQuart, Boston, ImageDyn, Diamond, Focal and many others have all been touted as the best at one time or another. If you have listened to the perfects in a car and like them, don't be too quick to pick a brand just based on other opinions. Ditto on the perfects too! Feeding them a clean, decent power (50-100w) is important. Try to listen to a few different sets, preferably in an evo, but in a car at least!

What amps are you thinking of? Separate amps for subs and fronts/rears? A good class d for the subs would be good, and a nice two/four for the mids and highs would be great too. Or, four channel, higher power. Bridge two for the subs(or 1 ten!), two for the fronts, and rear fill off rear chs of head unit.

Don't cheap out on your connections and power and grounding either!
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