-PICS- My new $60 modification, check it out.
CO2 intercooler sprayer. This was easy to make. You should see how much CO2 comes out of this thing, Its CRAZY!!
It turns the intercooler into a popsicle in about three seconds. That stuff is COLD!!
The 20oz Bottle fits perfect in the glove box. And unlike most intercooler sprayers this one sprays the whole intercooler. I put the soda can in the pics for size reference.
I am going to run some tests and trials with some temp sensors, before and after intercooler. I think I will get some good results. I will take some more pics with it installed, and a quick video of it working.
I only plan on using it at the track. The charge in the bottle lasts a pretty long time.
All the parts cost me about 60 dollars.
Alot better than spending 400 dollars for a small aftermarket sprayer.
Enjoy.
Maybe I do have too much time on my hands.
It turns the intercooler into a popsicle in about three seconds. That stuff is COLD!! I am going to run some tests and trials with some temp sensors, before and after intercooler. I think I will get some good results. I will take some more pics with it installed, and a quick video of it working.
I only plan on using it at the track. The charge in the bottle lasts a pretty long time.
All the parts cost me about 60 dollars.
Alot better than spending 400 dollars for a small aftermarket sprayer.
Enjoy.
Maybe I do have too much time on my hands.
Pretty slick. So do you just open the valve and let it flow? Curious how long that bottle lasts. I've got a lot of paintball stuff too, and thought about doing something like this, but more complicated with some sort of electronic push-button activation.
Oh, and keep in mind that the state of CO2 exiting the bottle is determined by the position of the bottle and the type of valve that is built into the bottle. When it is upside down, you may get straight liquid, which is VERY cold. Conversely, you may position it where you get straight vapor, which is not as cold. (but still cold) The liquid draw will empty the bottle much quicker than the vapor draw. Either way, the bottle will get cold and possibly frost over during this process, so make sure there is nothing in your glovebox that can't take freezing or moisture.
Oh, and keep in mind that the state of CO2 exiting the bottle is determined by the position of the bottle and the type of valve that is built into the bottle. When it is upside down, you may get straight liquid, which is VERY cold. Conversely, you may position it where you get straight vapor, which is not as cold. (but still cold) The liquid draw will empty the bottle much quicker than the vapor draw. Either way, the bottle will get cold and possibly frost over during this process, so make sure there is nothing in your glovebox that can't take freezing or moisture.
Last edited by Killboy; Mar 29, 2006 at 10:49 PM.
Originally Posted by Killboy
Pretty slick. So do you just open the valve and let it flow? Curious how long that bottle lasts. I've got a lot of paintball stuff too, and thought about doing something like this, but more complicated with some sort of electronic push-button activation.
superscout, I'm not trying to be a d*ck and since I'm new to this forum I don't want to overstep the line but I've got to ask...
The place where you connected that fitting to the valve on the CO2 bottle, what was there in the first place?
The place where you connected that fitting to the valve on the CO2 bottle, what was there in the first place?
Originally Posted by Ice IX
superscout, I'm not trying to be a d*ck and since I'm new to this forum I don't want to overstep the line but I've got to ask...
The place where you connected that fitting to the valve on the CO2 bottle, what was there in the first place?
The place where you connected that fitting to the valve on the CO2 bottle, what was there in the first place?
Originally Posted by Ice IX
superscout, I'm not trying to be a d*ck and since I'm new to this forum I don't want to overstep the line but I've got to ask...
The place where you connected that fitting to the valve on the CO2 bottle, what was there in the first place?
The place where you connected that fitting to the valve on the CO2 bottle, what was there in the first place?
Originally Posted by Killboy
Good point, that's the safety/blow-out valve that keeps the bottle from exploding if it gets heated up...say from sitting inside a hot car. 
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It's been a couple of years, but I was the assistant manager of a paintball shop. One of the customers brought me a photo (from a friend/relative that lived in another state) of what a 20oz CO2 bottle does when there the burst disk doesn't vent properly. It left a 15 foot around crater in a wooden deck and 4 feet down into the dirt below.
Good idea, in general, but for the love of God... PUT THE G*D D*MN BURST DISK AND VENT FITTING BACK IN!!!
Good idea, in general, but for the love of God... PUT THE G*D D*MN BURST DISK AND VENT FITTING BACK IN!!!
Originally Posted by superscout03
Thats too, But the bottle wont be in my car, execpt for when I am at the track.
Originally Posted by Ice IX
It's been a couple of years, but I was the assistant manager of a paintball shop. One of the customers brought me a photo (from a friend/relative that lived in another state) of what a 20oz CO2 bottle does when there the burst disk doesn't vent properly. It left a 15 foot around crater in a wooden deck and 4 feet down into the dirt below.
Good idea, in general, but for the love of God... PUT THE G*D D*MN BURST DISK AND VENT FITTING BACK IN!!!
Good idea, in general, but for the love of God... PUT THE G*D D*MN BURST DISK AND VENT FITTING BACK IN!!!
I don't want to get into a pissing match, but the burst disk that should be in there is rated between 3000 and 4500 PSI. The brass valves and fittings are strong, but the tank is aluminum. At about 6000 PSI, the whole aluminum tank blows itself apart from the pressure.
Originally Posted by superscout03
I highly doubt that it did anything. The canister wont blow up.
And that is not where the gas is drained before a refill, we just let it out of the main valve. It's much simpler, and a bigger opening for faster flow/transfer.
Because we love ya:
CO2 bottle explosion leaves two dazed, but un-injured"
"The explosion left a gaping whole in the wall and was reportedly so powerfull that parts of the door was blown off, shards of the bottle stuck in the ceiling. The bottle rocketed out of the room, down the stairs, and smashed furniture into "pieces" and caused "screws from around the room [to come] out of the sheetrock".
CO2 bottle explosion leaves two dazed, but un-injured"
"The explosion left a gaping whole in the wall and was reportedly so powerfull that parts of the door was blown off, shards of the bottle stuck in the ceiling. The bottle rocketed out of the room, down the stairs, and smashed furniture into "pieces" and caused "screws from around the room [to come] out of the sheetrock".
Need more proof, read this: http://www.paintballstar.com/pn/modu...21&page_id=390
Please understand that I'm not trying to belittle you or your kit. When I first saw CO2 systems on the market, I thought the same thing as you, "I could build that for a lot less". What I am trying to do is possibly prevent a very, very bad thing (no matter how unlikely) from happening. Would you rather increase the possibility of destroying your car or killing yourself over a $.50 piece of copper? I sure wouldn't.
Please understand that I'm not trying to belittle you or your kit. When I first saw CO2 systems on the market, I thought the same thing as you, "I could build that for a lot less". What I am trying to do is possibly prevent a very, very bad thing (no matter how unlikely) from happening. Would you rather increase the possibility of destroying your car or killing yourself over a $.50 piece of copper? I sure wouldn't.


