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Touched up rock chips.

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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Touched up rock chips.

Recently I acquired a sizeable set of rock chips on the edge of my hood, I then used touch up paint to hide them. Tell me if it's noticeable enough to get it repainted. I love my baby.

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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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From: St. Charles, IL
It looks a little rough around the edges. Do you know how to use a polisher or even rubbing compound by hand? It would really help hide it.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by eve-slow
It looks a little rough around the edges. Do you know how to use a polisher or even rubbing compound by hand? It would really help hide it.
I have rubbing compound. Should I go over it with it? I have the 3m one. I also have a buffer. Should I use the buffer or just do it by hand? It's a small cheap buffer, nothing powerful.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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From: St. Charles, IL
If you are not experienced with the buffer, I would not reccomend it because the area to be worked on is very easy to burn.

Allow the paint to fully dry, then use your 3M compund (is it Perfect-it?) by hand. If there are swirls when you are done, try using a swirl remover or some sort of polish.

If the compound pulls the paint out, don't worry, that spot probably wasn't meant to be. Just touch it up again.

Are you using base color (black) and then clear?
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by eve-slow
If you are not experienced with the buffer, I would not reccomend it because the area to be worked on is very easy to burn.

Allow the paint to fully dry, then use your 3M compund (is it Perfect-it?) by hand. If there are swirls when you are done, try using a swirl remover or some sort of polish.

If the compound pulls the paint out, don't worry, that spot probably wasn't meant to be. Just touch it up again.

Are you using base color (black) and then clear?
No clear. Just regular touch up paint from duplicolor, it's the universal black. I am experienced with a buffer, my family owns a hand detailing business called Ride 'N Shine. The 3M Stuff is just called "RUBBING COMPOUND". I have a lot of waxes, even professionally made ardex polishes. Which come black in color. It takes out swirls, which I use after rubbing compound. The buffer here at my house is like really weak. It's more like an "orbital polisher" than a buffer. It doesn't take paint off, unless you press hard like an idiot. It just does what you could do by hand in twenty minutes in about five. But if I smooth it out, do you think it's going to be OK? Or should I resort to repainting or getting a new hood? I know if I get it painted I will just end up having chips again, so I might as well wait until it's like horrible. I know how to do wet sanding for scratches. i.e. Get really fine grit sanding paper like 1500 and 2000, soak it in soap and water for a few hours. Then lightly go over the touched up area and polish it out, I've done that before. But being that it's on an edge, it wouldn't work.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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From: St. Charles, IL
Oh, if you know how to wetsand and buff, then do that. You can always re-touch-up if you get too aggresive with the sanding.

Also, i think your black is very slightly metallic. So getting paint from Mitsu might be a good idea. Also, if you use clear on top of the black (just use enough color to cover spot), you can build it up alot then wetsand it smooth.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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I went over it briskly with rubbing compound, so I didn't damage the area. Here's a shot from a little closer than a standing persons eyes. As you can see it's not THAT noticeable when you're standing up. What do you think?

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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by eve-slow
Oh, if you know how to wetsand and buff, then do that. You can always re-touch-up if you get too aggresive with the sanding.

Also, i think your black is very slightly metallic. So getting paint from Mitsu might be a good idea. Also, if you use clear on top of the black (just use enough color to cover spot), you can build it up alot then wetsand it smooth.
From my experience. On an edge, I'll do more damage then correction. It's not worth taking the chance of wet sanding on an edge.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:26 PM
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From: St. Charles, IL
Originally Posted by Varrius
From my experience. On an edge, I'll do more damage then correction. It's not worth taking the chance of wet sanding on an edge.
If you have experience, then why not? I know what you are saying, most people should not try that. I am a professional detailer and am certified in advanced autobody so its easy for me to say "its do-able".

BTW, the second pic doesn't show anything. So, ya, it looks better.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:30 PM
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You do not have to get paint from mitsu, your paint code is on your car. Its either in the jambs (quarterpanel) or in front of either your drivers side door or passengers side front door, or it could be on your spare tire cover, and lastly (and most likely) its in your glove compartment. You can drop a drop of base in the chip then drop a drop or two of clear on it then colorsand it as flat as you can with A BLOCK, then buff it out. This is kind of an advanced technique so try the handpolishing first. Like evo-slow said if it comes out it was not meant to be. Also let the drops of clear fully cure (a couple of days if you do not have heat lamps or a booth) then try the colorsanding and buffing route. Also for those hard to get places where a full size buffing pad is too big, go the paint store and get a lil 4 inch disk. I have one and it works wonders on bumpers and hard to get areas. Later all

Josh
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ziggy_juju
You do not have to get paint from mitsu, your paint code is on your car. Its either in the jambs (quarterpanel) or in front of either your drivers side door or passengers side front door, or it could be on your spare tire cover, and lastly (and most likely) its in your glove compartment. You can drop a drop of base in the chip then drop a drop or two of clear on it then colorsand it as flat as you can with A BLOCK, then buff it out. This is kind of an advanced technique so try the handpolishing first. Like evo-slow said if it comes out it was not meant to be. Also let the drops of clear fully cure (a couple of days if you do not have heat lamps or a booth) then try the colorsanding and buffing route. Also for those hard to get places where a full size buffing pad is too big, go the paint store and get a lil 4 inch disk. I have one and it works wonders on bumpers and hard to get areas. Later all

Josh

Before I do something that drastic, I'd just get a CF hood. I mean if you look REAL close, I have various small white dots, which are other chips. It's inveitable. I've asked people if they can find it, they can't seem to. I think I can live with it until I get CF hood or repaint. But it's not that "bad" looking. Here's another pic of the front. I threw in some others because I just detailed it. Enjoy.




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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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i want those rims..=) btw very nice evo
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 04:22 PM
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Thank you. They come in a variety of colors, believe it or not. They're also very cheap and look like they cost more than they actually are. I got them for 275 each. 18 x 8.5.

Here's some other colors: http://splparts.com/Parts/Universal/...en/default.htm
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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From: newjersey
looks great!
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Yeah your right in a different angle they arent noticable. And nice looking Evo by the way. Pesky rock chips you gotta hate em'. Plus having a black car, you will see EVERYTHING in the finish of it. I hate chips myself, and they are a pain in the butt to fix too. Requires sanding them out then you have to prime it cause you will see where you feathered them out if you do not. Then seal, base, and lastly clear. But oh well, like you said they are in inevitable. Take it easy man.

Josh
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