just wondering what some good electronic buffer options are for the evo's fragile paint? please include what type, part #(if you have it), retail price, and where you can find one new. also, if there is any particular reason why you chose them please include it. thanks for helping me on a decision all!

 

Its not really the buffer you should worry about on the EVO's fragile paint, its the pad, product, and technique you use.

If you are going to buy a buffer, I would recommend a Dewalt or Milwaukee (not sure on the spelling). Expect to pay $200.

 

OK, any tips on technique or pads/product that is good for evo's? what rpm range should you use?

 

If you get a quality polisher you should be fine. The buffer is VERY important because most of them rotate at high rpms which will heat smudge the paint. Porter Cable is one that has slower rpms...ill post the model number. I had to research this for my brothers NSX

 

cool, i'd appreciate it. so i should look for a polisher, not a buffer. sorry i'm new to this, always been a hand wax kinda guy but have seen great results from electronics, so i'm interested. i didn't know a buffer and polisher were different.

 

The Porter Cable PC 7424 is the polisher/buffer that I have. I used them interchangeably but they are different. I was saying a quality buffing/polishing compound should be good. If im not mistaken, polishing is the last stage and the buffing is what you'll be doing to remove imperfections.

The website that ended my searching put me here... http://autopia.org/forum/index.php?

There are a lot of INSANE people on this site

 

PC 7336 and a Makita 9227...PC is the only thing that touches my car though.

 

I'm one of those "insane" people.

Pick up a PC 7424 like boostless said - don't get a rotary.. you aren't ready for it if you had to ask for advice on 'buffers'.

The PC is not a rotary.. it doesn't work the same and it's absolutely newbie friendly. In fact, you need to TRY to destroy your paint with the PC (use dirty and heavily abrasive pads, etc). With that said, a rotary IS more effective but only in the right hands. If used incorrectly (and its very easy to do so even if you mean well) it can cause damage and heartbreak.

Try Optimum products.. great for the guy who is new to machine polishing - works great with the PC 7424. Grab the Optimum Compound and Optimum Polish. If your car is bad, use the Opt. Compound on it first. Pickup some new pads too.. the one that comes wiht the PC is crap. LC is a good brand. I don't know how your paint looks.. but if its moderately swirled, use the orange pad with the compound followed by a white pad with the polish.

When applying, don't be afraid to apply pressure.. maybe 15lbs or so is fine. You can figure out how much 15lbs of pressure is by pushing down on a bathroom scale.

Make sure you follow up the polish with the sealant of your choice.

 

Just make sure you dont buff the paint off the car with the electric buffer.

 

i have been detailing for 3 years and i recomend dewalt.OPTIMUM COMPOUNDS AND WAX are the sh#*!!!! poor boys is good too. just be slow on the edges and tape the rubber moldings so you dont burn it.

 

I bought my porter cable 7474 with 6" hook & loop and 6" counterweight for $119 here:
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...108+1162138348

I use Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze using W8006 Pad and NXT Tech Wax using W9006 pad.
Then I use another W8006 with Ultimate Bonnet to remove and buff off the NTX wax.

 

Griots Garage....Best waxes and products....(They have a great buffer -- I believe it is made by PC....)

 

I use the PC and love it. Very easy to use and not too hard to hold for long periods of time.

Your cutting pads and compounds should definitely be a main focus!!

 

I am a painter and have used lots of different buffers in my day. My all time favorite and the best IMO is the Makita variable speed buffer. Mine is slightly modified with a 50 ft cable (LOL anyone who has ever painted or detailed cars knows what i am talking about when your cord gets ripped out) so that I can throw the cord over my shoulder and buff a complete if need be. I am not sure of the part number but cost wise is around 299 or less if you shop around.

But as someone said before the buffer is not the issues its the pads and how you use them. Before buffing anything you had better know what the hell you are doing or you are not only going to be buying a new buffer but a new paint job as well. So like I always say take your time and do it right not twice. I have a thread that in a very simple manner outlines how to buff. Search Intro to buffing:101 Good luck

Josh

 

who makes the pads? thanks.
anyone else that can reccomend good pads/compound/polish that's newb friendly speak up please!