so is all you did is cut the piece of metal so that flat piece of metal is actualy welded onto the beam itself. you didn't cut it down length wise did you. meaning making it shorter from side to side

 

Exactly, all this modification did was eliminate the 1.5 inch arms that extended the bumper off the back of the car. Those two small pieces of metal were eliminated and than the plates were welded onto the bumper. The length, width, and structure of the beam have not been modified at all. To the naked eye the beam looks oem as it sits bolted onto the car. It's just closer to the car than oem.

IMO this wont effect colisions at all, and it certainly shouldn't change an insurance adjusters mind like those who are not running a crash beam at all.

 

sweet, I need to do this

 

+1 Im getting a JDM rear and i am going to do this

 

for people who are not proficient at welding, it might be wise to get another rear crash beam to try it out on so u don't screw up the only beam u have!!!!!!!!!!

 

+++++++++++++++++1.

If you guys saw how much work I have done to my own car it's like I have become a part time mechanic. Anyone can cut this beams brackets.......however, it takes some skill to weld the plate back making it look and function like oem. This is exactly why I had SophieSleeps modify this beam for me. He obviously has some serious welding experience.

 

hey sophie, I'm still waiting man, lol...i have the beam off the car for now with the jdm rear installed...pm me your schedule and if you still want to do this thanks man

 

That's actually pretty cool that someone was able to figure this out. I've got a buddy with one that needs to do this.

 

If you want to bring it by tonight, I can see what I can do.
I have a weird schedule so...yeah.

 

Very nice fabrication work

 

To all who need this...and feel like trying to do it themselves:

If you don't feel like doing this, or don't have the tools to, PM me and I'll do it for you.

Tools you'll need:
1. Grinder / plasma cutter
2. Drill with multiple drill bits
3. Welder (I use a TIG, but a MIG will do)
4. Sander/Grinder with sanding wheel
5. Some primer paint to cover the metal

This is what needs to be done

Remove the crash bar.
Each one of the legs is welded in 8 places. You have to cut each one of the welds off. (16 total)
Once each weld is cut off, pry the legs off the crash bar.

Each of the legs is spot welded in 4 places to the flange. (8 total)
You have to put the leg in a vice and drill out each of the spot welds.
Try not to bend the flange while doing this.
All in all, you'll make 4 rather large holes before the leg is separated from the flange.

Sand away the paint from the crash bar. You can't weld to paint.
Grind away the old welds on the top and bottom of the crash bar (16)
Place the flange back in the original position and line up the holes.
Weld the plate back onto the crash bar.
I like to weld as many sides as possible.
Please keep in mind that when you weld, paint will melt and burn and there will be fumes so please wear a mask that will filter it out and please keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

Once done and cool, repaint the metal so it doesn't rust.

 

as a body tech. the whole point of the exstensions on the crash beam is so when they take an impact they fold instead of your rear body panel. so basically this is just going to strengthin the whole rear body instead of reducing the damage that exstensions take during an impact . If you were to get hit in the *** with that bar u have, it would most likely cause the same amount of damage then with no bar at all. that design is still not safe. but yes its better then nothing. i believe sum1 actually designed one of these cash beams with exstensions.

 

I disagree to an extent. Look at the front crash beam. It doesn't have extensions to fold on impact yet it still helps in crashes. I think this is by far the best solution for a rear beam. The sum1 that actually designed the beam your talking about was flawed terribly. It was two thin pieces of metal welded to a metal bracket that looked like you could bend it with your hands. And it was $350

Im not saying this is as good as oem...........how could it be.......its modified. But its damn better than any other solution I have seen and a heck of a lot better than throwing it out altogether.

 

You guys do realize that the part that you cut off, is the main thing that takes the impact. Trust me I was in an accident to know. What you cut off, is the part that bends to absorb the energy. The actual bar itself really doesn't do much, other than make sure that all the energy is transfered to the small crumple zones (again the parts that you cut off).

Edit: after posting I read someone else is pointing out the same thing.

 

I respect your opinion as I'm sure you've seen quite a lot of stuff.

I've seen rear end collisions with both crash bars and without on the EVO.
Crash bar collisions end up much better off.

In my opinion, the bar takes most of the impact (because it is square tubing) and spreads the impact over the bar itself and also the 2 frame runners.

Without the bar, you'd get impact directly on the sheetmetal of the trunk and the pinpoint frame runners, most likely buckling them and caving in the trunk.

It's like taking a tube (frame runner) and hitting it with a hammer. You'll end up deforming the end of the tube and/or bending the entire tube.

However, take a tube with a square tube sitting on top and hit it with a hammer. You'll pancake the square tube before any considerable damage is done to the frame rail tube.

The damage to sheetmetal can hardly be argued. Without a bar protecting the sheetmetal, it would simply cave in.


Regardless of all this: Does anyone have any better options? I have yet to see a fabricated crash bar that will accomplish any of this. I'd like to see one or get suggestions so I can improve my work.