Using an orbital buffer
Using an orbital buffer
After years of being a hand polish/waxer, I was thinking about getting an orbital buffer and had some relatively simple question on their usage.
My question is in relation to removing the product after it is applied. When I do this by hand, I use a couple of microfiber towels, folding them over multiple times and switching towels so that I continue to have a clean towel for buffing.
When you use an orbital buffer to remove the product off the car, do you frequently change pads during the buffing process so that you continue to have a clean pad? Or are you able to buff the entire car with a single pad?
I'm just relating this to how I buff with a towel, in that I wouldn't use the same towel surface for the entire car when I buff the product off.
Also when applying the product, is there anything specifically that you do differently from the buffing process besides just prepping the pad with the polish or wax? Do you set it to a slower speed or move more quickly over the car so you don't spend too much time in one spot?
My question is in relation to removing the product after it is applied. When I do this by hand, I use a couple of microfiber towels, folding them over multiple times and switching towels so that I continue to have a clean towel for buffing.
When you use an orbital buffer to remove the product off the car, do you frequently change pads during the buffing process so that you continue to have a clean pad? Or are you able to buff the entire car with a single pad?
I'm just relating this to how I buff with a towel, in that I wouldn't use the same towel surface for the entire car when I buff the product off.
Also when applying the product, is there anything specifically that you do differently from the buffing process besides just prepping the pad with the polish or wax? Do you set it to a slower speed or move more quickly over the car so you don't spend too much time in one spot?
I use my buffer a few times a year for waxing. I never apply with the buffer anymore. I've found that applying by hand is just as fast and you can get in more of the tight spots with a simple applicator pad. The buffing process prevents any reall swirls as long as you get full coverage of the surface.
When removing the wax, I'll go through at least 2 bonnets, but that includes flipping them inside out after a while. Just make sure if you do this that no dirt or debris is trapped in the bonnet before flipping, because you'll end up scratching the paint.
Pretty much, using the buffer is common sense. It just takes a lot of the elbow grease out of a tedious (but rewarding) job. Others may have better methods, but my silver Evo is about as shiny as they come.
When removing the wax, I'll go through at least 2 bonnets, but that includes flipping them inside out after a while. Just make sure if you do this that no dirt or debris is trapped in the bonnet before flipping, because you'll end up scratching the paint.
Pretty much, using the buffer is common sense. It just takes a lot of the elbow grease out of a tedious (but rewarding) job. Others may have better methods, but my silver Evo is about as shiny as they come.
Why use your buffer to remove a product? Just get a whole bunch of plush MFs (not waffle weavels) and do it by hand. Make sure to do a 50/50 alcohol/water wipedown after you polish. You dont want any oils or residue left on the surface before you apply your LSP (last step product ie, wax or sealant.)
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