03 evo 8 wire tuck / brake relocation
my how to is this, the evo harness is pretty big and long, you do NOT want to extend wires, if you extend sheilded wire, your car will not run properly...PERIOD! your sub fuse panel can fit under the master cylinder. Do not attempt to put the main harness on the subframe, it will bind your transfer case. you will have to extend a total of 6 wires. to do it my way. When I get a little time I will break it down step by step. your cost will be around 300-400 bucks depending on your wire insulation and braided steel lines.
ROOL: so sick!
that car is flat out one the best in the world, it's an 8 that has a custom haltech and custom harness, also one of the first to use the chec made seqshift for our evo's, so it actually has a sequential shifter in it using the synchro trans. Can't remember the name of the company, but the kit is about 2000.00 us and there straight cut (dog box transition from synchro kit is about 3500.00, but I have still to see one in the US. Thats a car in sweden. The Seqshift is actually going to probably be one of my next major modifications.
also, the reason for not seeing the master/ brake booster, is he is using a tilton engineering race pedal setup, and doing that alone will set you back about 800.00 not including shaving the engine bay. So here is my how to on this setup. I will start out by telling you the car was basically stock when I started.
the list of things you will need to buy is as follows:
brakes: find a hydraulic hose manufacturer such as royal brass and hose. They can manufacture custom brake line out braided line. It will be one size so don't worry about that, what I did is measure and have them make them, then took them back home. an easier way is to just buy enough of the line and cut it yourself and then labeling the lines as to what ends you will need. the lines and fittings for your brakes should cost you no more than $250.00, if they do than your being taken advantage of.
wiring: you will need whatever you decide, I like flame retardent braided neaprine covering, so I bought that and alot of different sized heat shrink, which would look awesome if you really want to de pin every sensor. I did not, because of a time constraint. this will all set you back about another $100.00-$250.00 which is why when I see a honda wire tucking harness for 1200.00 I laugh alot at the idiot who couldn't figure out he was being marked up about 1,000%. Every single AN line fitting and simple plug and play harness you see these guys making can be yours if you go down to your local electronic supply, and hydraulic line store. I am all about an original idea and capatilism, but your just being ripped off, and I digress.
step one : put the vehicle on a lift or jack stands (WARNING: I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU NOT READING WARNING LABELS OR BEING AN IDIOT AND CRUSHING YOURSELF. IF YOU ARE NOT PREPARED DO NOT DO THIS, ALSO, IF YOU DO NOT WORK ON OR HAVE WORKED ON CARS BEFORE, DO NOT DO THIS!) I am rating this modification about an 8 out of 10 for diffaculty.
step two : remove wheels, brakes, cv axles, and fluids from the radiator/t-case/trans/engine.
step three :remove and unbolt all of the electronics from on top of the engine, (this includes the battery and move them out of your way.
step four: remove intake manifold.
step five : remove rear dog bone mount, shifter linkeage, and lower cross member.
once you get to this step you are pretty much on your own, there are about three different ways to do this and I litterely had to try all three when doing it. you will need to remove the IC sprayer bottle below your head light and remove your front bumper. other than that, the wiring harness tucking process is up to you. you can go all out and put it inside the fire wall and inside the fender well or you can just hide it. it's up to you. Have fun.
also, I removed all hard lines and insulation of the fire wall, and I relocated the abs motor to the inside of the car.
the list of things you will need to buy is as follows:
brakes: find a hydraulic hose manufacturer such as royal brass and hose. They can manufacture custom brake line out braided line. It will be one size so don't worry about that, what I did is measure and have them make them, then took them back home. an easier way is to just buy enough of the line and cut it yourself and then labeling the lines as to what ends you will need. the lines and fittings for your brakes should cost you no more than $250.00, if they do than your being taken advantage of.
wiring: you will need whatever you decide, I like flame retardent braided neaprine covering, so I bought that and alot of different sized heat shrink, which would look awesome if you really want to de pin every sensor. I did not, because of a time constraint. this will all set you back about another $100.00-$250.00 which is why when I see a honda wire tucking harness for 1200.00 I laugh alot at the idiot who couldn't figure out he was being marked up about 1,000%. Every single AN line fitting and simple plug and play harness you see these guys making can be yours if you go down to your local electronic supply, and hydraulic line store. I am all about an original idea and capatilism, but your just being ripped off, and I digress.
step one : put the vehicle on a lift or jack stands (WARNING: I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU NOT READING WARNING LABELS OR BEING AN IDIOT AND CRUSHING YOURSELF. IF YOU ARE NOT PREPARED DO NOT DO THIS, ALSO, IF YOU DO NOT WORK ON OR HAVE WORKED ON CARS BEFORE, DO NOT DO THIS!) I am rating this modification about an 8 out of 10 for diffaculty.
step two : remove wheels, brakes, cv axles, and fluids from the radiator/t-case/trans/engine.
step three :remove and unbolt all of the electronics from on top of the engine, (this includes the battery and move them out of your way.
step four: remove intake manifold.
step five : remove rear dog bone mount, shifter linkeage, and lower cross member.
once you get to this step you are pretty much on your own, there are about three different ways to do this and I litterely had to try all three when doing it. you will need to remove the IC sprayer bottle below your head light and remove your front bumper. other than that, the wiring harness tucking process is up to you. you can go all out and put it inside the fire wall and inside the fender well or you can just hide it. it's up to you. Have fun.
also, I removed all hard lines and insulation of the fire wall, and I relocated the abs motor to the inside of the car.
