Engine Bay Restoration/Evo 8
Feb 26, 2014, 03:33 PM
#16
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Anyone with insight on the battery stud? Like -3 degrees in my garage so I'm not exactly digging around in there, not sure if anyone knows how to remove/replace them? Seems like that battery stud was put in some wild recess behind the wheel well in the subframe, and I'm not sure I can get at it.
Mar 26, 2014, 06:21 PM
#17
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Consider these the before shots.........I have some serious work cut out for me. All the snapped off bolts are currently drilled out, time to tap them to appropriate sizes and figure out how I am going to re-work a few areas ( IE the battery stud I have no idea how to get out??).....
Currently grinding away any rust I can see.
Last edited by Ricoswave; Mar 26, 2014 at 06:31 PM.
Apr 2, 2014, 05:34 AM
#22
This is pretty typical for a northeast evo that has seen daily driving duty for a few winters in the tristate. I am not too far behind you man. Changing the radiator support bolts made a huge difference for me.
Post up the finished product so other Northeast guys have something to strive for
Post up the finished product so other Northeast guys have something to strive for
Apr 2, 2014, 05:20 PM
#23
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Its what happens when the car is driven for a few northeast winters. Salt on the road corrodes the car bad. This is a car that was washed weekly. It is garaged now, so I am trying to play damage control. The bodywork is in good shape though, and under the car isn't as bad as you would think. The main crossmember with the front motor mount is expectedly shot........
My plan is to grind everything I can see, prep it nice, prime it with something that will prevent rust, and top it off with a coat of tarmac black. The
The problem with that battery stud, is there is zero access to the back of the stud. No clue how I could even entertain the thought of replacing it. Hmmm.
My plan is to grind everything I can see, prep it nice, prime it with something that will prevent rust, and top it off with a coat of tarmac black. The
The problem with that battery stud, is there is zero access to the back of the stud. No clue how I could even entertain the thought of replacing it. Hmmm.
Apr 2, 2014, 05:39 PM
#24
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I'm also in the Syracuse area and I'm dealing with similar issues, nothing as wide spread as yours cause I purchased the car down state.
But things I've noticed that are rusting are the strut top hats, currently being replaced with camber plates.
The rear crash beam and plate lamp bracket is shot as well, so picked up a new OEM bracket and the STM rear beam.
My last trouble spot seems to be the upper pockets underneath on the frame just outside of the stock mustache bar.
I'd suggest you pick up a container of POR15, in my opinion it's the best rust blocker/stopper/primer. And as long as it's in a spot where nobody will see you can just leave it and not worry about paint.
Good luck, I'm sure I'll see you around town this summer.
But things I've noticed that are rusting are the strut top hats, currently being replaced with camber plates.
The rear crash beam and plate lamp bracket is shot as well, so picked up a new OEM bracket and the STM rear beam.
My last trouble spot seems to be the upper pockets underneath on the frame just outside of the stock mustache bar.
I'd suggest you pick up a container of POR15, in my opinion it's the best rust blocker/stopper/primer. And as long as it's in a spot where nobody will see you can just leave it and not worry about paint.
Good luck, I'm sure I'll see you around town this summer.
Apr 3, 2014, 02:45 PM
#25
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Dude I literally had to re-fabricate my rear bumper bracketry, did it all out of aluminum when I had the bumper out for paint. POR15 is definitely something I'm looking into. If I could justify it I would pull the motor and really give the engine bay what it needs, but unfortunately that will have to wait until I blow this motor up, or have the funds to get into a full motor build.
Rust sucks.
Rust sucks.
Apr 5, 2014, 10:23 AM
#26
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Anybody Ever fabricate their own mounts on the firewall for the relays/fuel injector resistor box? All of that is basically trashed, I think I might have to take it all apart and fab my own out of aluminum.
Apr 5, 2014, 09:26 PM
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POR15 is less then special. Do yourself a favor and hit up a local auto body supply house and get some real epoxy primer, PPG has the DP series, Duponts industrial line of Corlar would also be a good choice. You can get a black mastic version of the Corlar thats one of the few epoxys available thats approved for submerged salt water use. Its nasty stuff, but with a quick sand blast and wire wheel, you'll give any rust a real run for the money.
Northeastern cars... wooo
Northeastern cars... wooo
Apr 21, 2014, 10:11 PM
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For small brackets like that, i think you should find a place that sand/ media blast or make a run to harbor freight and buy your own sandblaster kit.. Its cheap and brings old rusted parts like that back down to the bare metal.. Ive used sand blast/ good primer and vht epoxy paint that is oil/ salt resistant on a few parts and theyre holding up great so far..