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I keep getting bumps after waxing

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Old May 8, 2004 | 05:16 PM
  #1  
Ravenlancer's Avatar
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I keep getting bumps after waxing

Not me, the car. First time I used Mothers carnuba wax, and polished the car before waxing with a electric buffer. I had little bumps of wax all over the car, but more noticeably on the hood and top. The other day, I stripped all of the old wax off with a dish detergent/alcohol mix, and applied new wax (Turtle Wax color match) and got the bumps again. This time I did it all by hand. This is annoying to say the least. What is happening to cause this?
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Old May 9, 2004 | 08:39 AM
  #2  
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From: NYC/NNJ
Originally Posted by Ravenlancer
Not me, the car. First time I used Mothers carnuba wax, and polished the car before waxing with a electric buffer. I had little bumps of wax all over the car, but more noticeably on the hood and top. The other day, I stripped all of the old wax off with a dish detergent/alcohol mix, and applied new wax (Turtle Wax color match) and got the bumps again. This time I did it all by hand. This is annoying to say the least. What is happening to cause this?

yeah your using turtle wax... that's the problem
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Old May 9, 2004 | 08:42 AM
  #3  
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From: Chicago NW Suburbs
Try not to apply so much...it sounds like your gobbing it on, just use a little bit. I don't know how people go through a bottle after 2 or 3 waxes; my 16 ounce bottles of whatever always lasts at least 10 cars.
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Old May 9, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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try after the wash to use claybar
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Old May 9, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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From: Detroit
After a full wash, use the clay bar on the entire car. This will take an hour or two, but the results are well worth it. Follow it up with Meguires 3 stage car package...cleaner wax, polish, and sealant. Do that, and your car will make your neighbors envious! (As if they are not already)
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Old May 9, 2004 | 11:40 AM
  #6  
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From: Home of USGP!
1. A rotary buffer is WAY to harsh to use on paint this new. It is NOT for "detailing" but is used to correct serious problems that the paint might already have.

2. If you must use a machine, use an orbital.

3. Don't use liquid wax. Use paste.

4. Detergent soap/alchohol is terrible for paint, you could be chemically softening it.

5. Sounds like in an good hearted effort to make your car shine you are destroying it.

Our Evo's paint is cheap (sorry, that is just the reality). In order to make it really look good you must be very delicate with it. The idea would be to never rub a lot of it off, and protect what surface you have by waxing often, very lightly, with an extremely soft cloth on a high speed orbital all in an effort to keep the surface molecules very excited.
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Old May 9, 2004 | 03:58 PM
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From: Chicago NW Suburbs
Also, I just thought of another no no you might be doing: waxing in sunlight. This might make those globs of wax dry right up. Also, like OnlieAlias mentioned, a rotary buffer is much to harsh for the POS paint on the evo. And instead of using Meguiar's, use Zaino, you wont regret it (unless your impatient and hate to "work" for a realy shiney, protective coat).
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Old May 9, 2004 | 07:23 PM
  #8  
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From: Temecula, Ca.
4. Detergent soap/alchohol is terrible for paint, you could be chemically softening it.
you will want to use dish detergent IF/AND ONLY IF you plan on rewaxing. this will remove all the old wax from the paint, then you can start fresh with a clay bar, cleaner, polish, carnuba wax. Otherwise without removing the old wax, it just builds up and will dull the paint even worse.

Meguiars 3 step plus clay bar = very clean car
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Old May 9, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #9  
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From: Kohler, WI
I switched to Zaino and never looked back.
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