i was warned by someone who had them that i should always overinflate the tires or the rims would dent easily.... is this rumor true? i thought this rim was semi-forged construction and very tough....

 

That's a new one to me. That's one of the lightest, strongest wheels we carry. I really don't know of any tougher construction than semi-solid forging. Many use this wheel in competition use at lower inflation pressure where you get a lot more abuse than street driving. Also, over inflation makes your tire a bit more prone to damage or irregular wear itself.

 

im not too worried about it wearing more on the center because im getting too much wear on the edges (ex:autox) but i am more worried about rim damage.... so with my stock advans, what psi do you recommend i run on the street?

 

I'd start with your stock pressures of 32 F 29 R to start then move up in 2-3 lbs increments, not exceeding the max psi. This way you can "tune" in your preferred feel in the car.

 

right now im running 40 psi in the front and 38 psi in the rear... you think this is ok? i do go through spirited driving here and there

 

Shouldn't be an issue as long as its not over the max. That sounds like a good street combo

 

I heard the same thing too. Speed vision BMW guys use to run them but they dent so many of them at the tract! not on the street. And they switch to something else this season. The center portion of the wheels are forge and they are strong. but the outer lip is where the problem is.

 

outer lip isnt forged? wat gives?

 

Sorry to go OT for a bit. Hey Neal, the max psi listed for a tire, is that cold or hot? That has been bugging me for a while lol

 

no problem always cold

 

Sorry, I disagree with you Neal. I know many race teams that had to buy hordes of these because they bend too easily.

Look how many Turner bought from you 2 seasons ago for World Challenge.

Warren

 

No wheel is bend proof, my point is they are stronger than most wheels in the market. And for what the average individual does (local auto-x, some road race, street driving) they work quite well. If I had to put my $ on a semi solid forged wheel or a cast wheel... I'm betting on SSR

 

that put my mind at ease, thanks neal. im no pro racer, mostly street driving and abit of amateur racing here and there.... i'll go w/ these definetly

 

Let the race tire dealer have his say. The reason top teams use these wheels are they are extremely light, not extremely strong. Any top team team will use wheels as a disposable commodity. Use them for only so long and toss them or sell them to club guys. This is what happens on may World Challange teams. If the wheels start failing they will then go to BBS or FISKE or some other top brand which may be little heavier but less prone to getting damaged.

One note on the SSR is that the hub ring needs to in exactly. If it is off just a little bit the wheel can come off. I saw it twice this year with SSR Comp wheels. They also require a heat cycle on the wheel then re-torque the lugs to reset them. The High end BBS require the wheels be seated then reseated or they will come loose.

These wheels were never made for street use, remember that. Buy at your own risk knowing you have a "professional" competition wheel. Not made to withstand potholes, curbs and rr tracks. Thanks for listening. Now have fun.

 

Wonder if there is any difference in the outer lips between the SSR Competition and the SSR Type-C wheels?