Help my EVO is not steering straight!
space monkey- that's his problem
he HAD an alignment and it's just as bad now, but on the other side! 
EVOTEXAS- thanks for the backup on the caster (castor- whatever
) issue
bbbwrx- a LOT and I mean almost every shop I went to for alignments told me flat out- it is IMPOSSIBLE to get your steering wheel to go back to verticle. These shops said it would always have a noticable tilt to it. And that's just BS.
Here are just a few of the DIY alignment sites I studied before attempting (successfully) my own aligns. Some are obvioulsy more useful than others:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/48938/
http://www.bodydynamicsracing.com/camber.htm
http://locost7.info/mirror/tools.php
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/alignment.html
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html
http://www.wincom.net/trog/alignment_rack.html
http://www.negative-camber.org/
http://www.team3s.com/FAQcastcamb.htm
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/p...ment/index.php
he HAD an alignment and it's just as bad now, but on the other side! 
EVOTEXAS- thanks for the backup on the caster (castor- whatever
) issuebbbwrx- a LOT and I mean almost every shop I went to for alignments told me flat out- it is IMPOSSIBLE to get your steering wheel to go back to verticle. These shops said it would always have a noticable tilt to it. And that's just BS.
Here are just a few of the DIY alignment sites I studied before attempting (successfully) my own aligns. Some are obvioulsy more useful than others:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/48938/
http://www.bodydynamicsracing.com/camber.htm
http://locost7.info/mirror/tools.php
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/alignment.html
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html
http://www.wincom.net/trog/alignment_rack.html
http://www.negative-camber.org/
http://www.team3s.com/FAQcastcamb.htm
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/p...ment/index.php
Originally Posted by engineerboy
space monkey- that's his problem
he HAD an alignment and it's just as bad now, but on the other side! 
EVOTEXAS- thanks for the backup on the caster (castor- whatever
) issue
bbbwrx- a LOT and I mean almost every shop I went to for alignments told me flat out- it is IMPOSSIBLE to get your steering wheel to go back to verticle. These shops said it would always have a noticable tilt to it. And that's just BS.
Here are just a few of the DIY alignment sites I studied before attempting (successfully) my own aligns. Some are obvioulsy more useful than others:
he HAD an alignment and it's just as bad now, but on the other side! 
EVOTEXAS- thanks for the backup on the caster (castor- whatever
) issuebbbwrx- a LOT and I mean almost every shop I went to for alignments told me flat out- it is IMPOSSIBLE to get your steering wheel to go back to verticle. These shops said it would always have a noticable tilt to it. And that's just BS.
Here are just a few of the DIY alignment sites I studied before attempting (successfully) my own aligns. Some are obvioulsy more useful than others:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener.../aa012201a.htm
Caster:
Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and is not adjustable on this vehicle. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster.
When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel returnability may be diminished when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster.
Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and is not adjustable on this vehicle. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster.
When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel returnability may be diminished when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster.
Yes all the shops that told you that are not a shop i would trust. They probably just said that so they wouldn't have to work on you car again.
And if all else fails ask them to hit the help button on the screen of there alignment machine.

Ben
HK Evo- you could try just flpping the eccentric bolt on one side and see if that helps. Take off the tire, loosen the top of the two large bolts on your strut and turn the entire bolt 180 degrees (no, do'nt take it out and flip it so it points the other direction, turn it with the wrench
). Retighten and replace tire. See if that doesn't help.
BBB- Sorry, I missed his report pic. My bad. and yeah, the number that worries me is the extreme camber difference.
). Retighten and replace tire. See if that doesn't help. BBB- Sorry, I missed his report pic. My bad. and yeah, the number that worries me is the extreme camber difference.
Originally Posted by EVOTEXAS
Camber and toe is completely adjustable for a street car in the front and rear. Your alignment does not look good.
You should have them acheive something like:
Front:
Camber: -1.4 L/R
Toe: 0 mm
Rear:
Camber: -.9 or -1.0 L/R
Toe: .01 mm
There should be no left/right variation. Also, caster, which is not adjustable, can cause your car to pull. Some places can compensate with a mild tweak to camber.
Either way, your specs do not look good.
You should have them acheive something like:
Front:
Camber: -1.4 L/R
Toe: 0 mm
Rear:
Camber: -.9 or -1.0 L/R
Toe: .01 mm
There should be no left/right variation. Also, caster, which is not adjustable, can cause your car to pull. Some places can compensate with a mild tweak to camber.
Either way, your specs do not look good.
Last edited by Hong Kong Evo; Oct 23, 2004 at 05:53 PM.
Originally Posted by engineerboy
space monkey- that's his problem
he HAD an alignment and it's just as bad now, but on the other side! 
EVOTEXAS- thanks for the backup on the caster (castor- whatever
) issue
bbbwrx- a LOT and I mean almost every shop I went to for alignments told me flat out- it is IMPOSSIBLE to get your steering wheel to go back to verticle. These shops said it would always have a noticable tilt to it. And that's just BS.
Here are just a few of the DIY alignment sites I studied before attempting (successfully) my own aligns. Some are obvioulsy more useful than others:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/48938/
http://www.bodydynamicsracing.com/camber.htm
http://locost7.info/mirror/tools.php
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/alignment.html
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html
http://www.wincom.net/trog/alignment_rack.html
http://www.negative-camber.org/
http://www.team3s.com/FAQcastcamb.htm
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/p...ment/index.php
he HAD an alignment and it's just as bad now, but on the other side! 
EVOTEXAS- thanks for the backup on the caster (castor- whatever
) issuebbbwrx- a LOT and I mean almost every shop I went to for alignments told me flat out- it is IMPOSSIBLE to get your steering wheel to go back to verticle. These shops said it would always have a noticable tilt to it. And that's just BS.
Here are just a few of the DIY alignment sites I studied before attempting (successfully) my own aligns. Some are obvioulsy more useful than others:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/48938/
http://www.bodydynamicsracing.com/camber.htm
http://locost7.info/mirror/tools.php
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/alignment.html
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html
http://www.wincom.net/trog/alignment_rack.html
http://www.negative-camber.org/
http://www.team3s.com/FAQcastcamb.htm
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/p...ment/index.php
Originally Posted by engineerboy
HK Evo- you could try just flpping the eccentric bolt on one side and see if that helps. Take off the tire, loosen the top of the two large bolts on your strut and turn the entire bolt 180 degrees (no, do'nt take it out and flip it so it points the other direction, turn it with the wrench
). Retighten and replace tire. See if that doesn't help.
). Retighten and replace tire. See if that doesn't help.
Does the car pull to the side if you take your hands totally off the steering wheel? If not -- if the car (on flat pavement) tracks straight ahead with hands off the wheel -- then your complaint is basically that when the tires are centered, the steering wheel is not. This is not a faulty alignment in the sense of causing handling problems, but it is a faulty alignment in a purely cosmetic sense.
This happens if the alignment shop measures and sets front toe while the steering wheel is not perfectly centered. Because you had such a big imbalance between left and right toe in the front, it leads me to think that happened here. They measured the initial alignment with the steering wheel slightly off center, and then they "fixed" the front wheels to point straight ahead with the steering wheel in that slightly off center position.
To some people, a few degrees off center doesn't matter -- to others, it's a constant annoyance. You should be able to get it fixed by the alignment shop -- but I seriously doubt that you will see any problems (other than the steering wheel being slightly cocked to the side) if you leave it as is.
This happens if the alignment shop measures and sets front toe while the steering wheel is not perfectly centered. Because you had such a big imbalance between left and right toe in the front, it leads me to think that happened here. They measured the initial alignment with the steering wheel slightly off center, and then they "fixed" the front wheels to point straight ahead with the steering wheel in that slightly off center position.
To some people, a few degrees off center doesn't matter -- to others, it's a constant annoyance. You should be able to get it fixed by the alignment shop -- but I seriously doubt that you will see any problems (other than the steering wheel being slightly cocked to the side) if you leave it as is.
Another question I have is for people who fixed their alignment issue the second time ... did you guys adjusted the camber? if so how did you guys do it?
Last edited by Hong Kong Evo; Oct 23, 2004 at 09:42 PM.
Originally Posted by Hong Kong Evo
I thought about this too ... it seems to make sense ... but I only drove on these new toyos for about 200 - 300 miles ... and I think the possible amount of tire wear I could've done to it wouldn't be enough to pull the car to the left like how it is right now .... i thought about swapping around the wheels too ...
- Jason
Originally Posted by LancerOZ
You'd be suprised. I would be willing to bet it's those tires. 200-300 miles is plenty of time on those aggressive compound evo tires to wear an alternative pattern into your tread on one side.
- Jason
- Jason
Originally posted by:jbrennen
Listen to jbrennen, Hong Kong Evo. What he's saying is exactly right.
Does the car pull to the side if you take your hands totally off the steering wheel? If not -- if the car (on flat pavement) tracks straight ahead with hands off the wheel -- then your complaint is basically that when the tires are centered, the steering wheel is not. This is not a faulty alignment in the sense of causing handling problems, but it is a faulty alignment in a purely cosmetic sense.
This happens if the alignment shop measures and sets front toe while the steering wheel is not perfectly centered. Because you had such a big imbalance between left and right toe in the front, it leads me to think that happened here. They measured the initial alignment with the steering wheel slightly off center, and then they "fixed" the front wheels to point straight ahead with the steering wheel in that slightly off center position.
To some people, a few degrees off center doesn't matter -- to others, it's a constant annoyance. You should be able to get it fixed by the alignment shop -- but I seriously doubt that you will see any problems (other than the steering wheel being slightly cocked to the side) if you leave it as is.
This happens if the alignment shop measures and sets front toe while the steering wheel is not perfectly centered. Because you had such a big imbalance between left and right toe in the front, it leads me to think that happened here. They measured the initial alignment with the steering wheel slightly off center, and then they "fixed" the front wheels to point straight ahead with the steering wheel in that slightly off center position.
To some people, a few degrees off center doesn't matter -- to others, it's a constant annoyance. You should be able to get it fixed by the alignment shop -- but I seriously doubt that you will see any problems (other than the steering wheel being slightly cocked to the side) if you leave it as is.
Originally Posted by 3K
Originally posted by:jbrennen
Listen to jbrennen, Hong Kong Evo. What he's saying is exactly right.
Listen to jbrennen, Hong Kong Evo. What he's saying is exactly right.
Thanks for all the input guys
.
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