I'm buying a torque wrench TODAY. It'll be cheaper then the two rotors that I replaced on the Volvo...

 

Basically what every one said (sorry just coming back from a short vacation) We will not use air guns or just a regular breaker bar here to torque wheels down. Some places will use a torque stick/air gun combo but that's not always safe either. Best solution is tightening them with a torque wrench by hand. Thats all our guys here use.

 

what are evo rims suppose 2 be torqued at??

 

F*CK!!! I remember this. I couldnt even get these off with a freakin impact wrench. I didnt even bother going back to the guys who say "they do vettes and other high end automobile." My lugs were stuck on. Now I gotta get new sets of lugs. Went to a shop and they told me it's gonna cost me $300 and 3-5 hours time since they gotta take the whole front end out. I am like **** YOU! I went to my trustworthy auto body shop it it took him 5 minutes with a hammer and a chisel and hammered it out. Try using a hammer and a chisel and slowly try it.

 

i set mine at 87ft/lbs. Thats in the ball park. I think its supposed to be around 85-90ft/lbs. Just make sure that all the lugs on one wheel are at the same torque specs

 

wHAT SHOULD THEY BE? LIKE 110 POUNDS?

 

read the pst right above you, he is perfectly correct when he says it needs to be torqued around 85 to 90 ft/lbs

 

I agree, torque it at 85-90 lb-ft.

 

so I used a torque wrench to torque my wheels and have taken on and off at least 4 times between ratation and all. however today the lugs where tight, super tight on every wheel (everyone of the lugs too) and they stud seemed to have some white stuff on it...

can someone this of what could cause this?

PS I used a long crow bar to take it off the lugs and they would pop before getting loose...

 

Torquing a lug to that point can cause serious problems. If you take the stud close to or above it's yield strength. Once this happens the stud is permantly weakened, it loose elasticity properties which compromises it's ability to retain the nut (ie you can torque it down properly in the future and have lugs back off). Another issue is that the stud has been weakened, has a much higher likely hood of failing in the future. It's tensile strength has gone down considerably, and that is the direction that the stud is stressed due to hard cornering.

In the future you could suffer from a fillet break at that base of the wheel stud, while driving. More than one fastener may fail. The wheel can come off of your car and cause severe damage. This is not a joke, I handle insurance claims on things of this nature.

REPLACE ALL OF YOUR WHEEL STUDS AND BE SAFE!

 

stripping out the lugnuts and possibly snapping it from the hub assembly

 

Where are you located?


- Andrew

 

South FLA.. not by the beach or anything

 

Interesting thread...if these studs were over torqued to the degree stated, there is no way they are not stretched....probably would have stripped the splines on the stud shaft where they insert into the hub and left them "free spinning". The stock EVO studs are pretty soft and I have stretched them with a lot less. The manual's torque figure is 73 ft/lbs for the stock flat washered nuts...a bit more for aftermarket acorn, convex bottomed ones...80 ft/lbs... and a recheck after driving a bit. If you have undone/done nuts several times and used torque figures of 95+ ft/lbs, those studs are about to live a short life.

 

I always take my wheels off and take them to the shop to get new rubber, I don't let them touch my car... Also remember to torque the lugs with the car in the air so the wheel doesn't get in a bind sitting on the ground.