Steering wheel shakes during high speed braking
Jun 15, 2005, 08:02 AM
#1
Steering wheel shakes during high speed braking
What could this be caused by? I don't think I have warped rotors as the shaking goes away if I brake hard at lower speeds. I've also noticed that the shaking happens at light pedal pressure; if I increase pedal pressure, the shaking goes away somewhat.
Could it be wheel weights? I only have 8500 miles on my car, FWIW.
Could it be wheel weights? I only have 8500 miles on my car, FWIW.
Jun 15, 2005, 08:18 AM
#3
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Usually when it shakes when you are braking only, it is your brake rotors are warped. I can't stand that.. mine were doing it and I took it to the dealership and they fixed it. U might have gone through some water or rain when the brakes were really hot and it caused the rotors to warp.. also what causes warped rotors is tightening your lug nuts with an impact gun. Never do that. Use a torque wrench and tighten them to 100 ft/lb. For a regular 4-lug lancer ES/OZ the specs are 80 ft/lb. But since your car is brand new, take it back cause its under warranty. They will fix it for you.
Jun 15, 2005, 08:29 AM
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Try re-bedding your pads; do a series of 10 60 mph to 10 mph brake applications that are smooth and do not engage the ABS. Then drive the car until the brakes cool and try not to apply the brakes (freeway). When brakes are cool do it again and that should deposit enough pad material on the rotors to stop your shake. Oh by the way you will definitely smell the pads after about the 10th brake application which means you are doing it right. After the 2nd bedding drive for about 10-15 minutes to allow the brakes to cool and don't drive right home and wash the car; wait until next day. Hopes this helps.
Jun 15, 2005, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wiretap
Usually when it shakes when you are braking only, it is your brake rotors are warped. I can't stand that.. mine were doing it and I took it to the dealership and they fixed it. U might have gone through some water or rain when the brakes were really hot and it caused the rotors to warp.. also what causes warped rotors is tightening your lug nuts with an impact gun. Never do that. Use a torque wrench and tighten them to 100 ft/lb. For a regular 4-lug lancer ES/OZ the specs are 80 ft/lb. But since your car is brand new, take it back cause its under warranty. They will fix it for you.
-Paul
Jun 15, 2005, 08:43 AM
#7
i don't know how it could be alignment. if it was the rotors, why doesn't it do it all the time during braking? the only thing I can think of is lug torquing. I'm gonna retorque my lugs tonight and see if that makes a difference.
My car is somewhat modified so I'm a bit hesitant to take it to the dealer considering Mitsu/Evo warranty horror stories.
My car is somewhat modified so I'm a bit hesitant to take it to the dealer considering Mitsu/Evo warranty horror stories.
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Jun 15, 2005, 08:50 AM
#9
Originally Posted by DCSilvrEvo
ACTUALLY it doesnt have to be the brakes at all. My car did that because when more weight is on the front wheels(Bent) it shakes. My Rotors were perfect! Wheels were bent. But not bent enough to feel it at normal drivng.
Jun 16, 2005, 12:55 PM
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What a bunch of wrong headed answers except one. If you do a fair amount of city driving or are wimpy on the brakes then it is very common to get some slight build up on the rotors. This can feel like warped rotors when you finally do brake hard (like from high speeds) The right answer is to rebed the pads. 10 hard stops from 60 - 5 should do it. Not too hard as to engage the abs. Make sure you don't come to a complete stop and finally drive around for about 5 miles without using the brakes much to cool down the rotors after bedding the pads.
regards,
alan
regards,
alan
Jun 17, 2005, 06:22 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 00R101
What a bunch of wrong headed answers except one. If you do a fair amount of city driving or are wimpy on the brakes then it is very common to get some slight build up on the rotors. This can feel like warped rotors when you finally do brake hard (like from high speeds) The right answer is to rebed the pads. 10 hard stops from 60 - 5 should do it. Not too hard as to engage the abs. Make sure you don't come to a complete stop and finally drive around for about 5 miles without using the brakes much to cool down the rotors after bedding the pads.
regards,
alan
regards,
alan
Last night I took off all 4 wheels and retorqued the lugs, but there was absolutely no difference. It is definitely a brake issue. I hope it's not warped rotors...I hate taking my car in to the dealer.
Jun 17, 2005, 06:37 AM
#14
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In all my years of racing I have never heard of "tightening your lugnuts with an impact gun will warp your rotors". That is BS. It more than likely pad transfer to the rotor. If you are on the factory pads it is very common.
Jun 17, 2005, 06:42 AM
#15
Originally Posted by hotrod2448
In all my years of racing I have never heard of "tightening your lugnuts with an impact gun will warp your rotors". That is BS. It more than likely pad transfer to the rotor. If you are on the factory pads it is very common.