evo steering wheel shakes
Originally Posted by Box Rocket
Pulled this from another thread from someone doing a 75,000mile review.
2) Do NOT resurface your rotors (unless you change the brake pads….and even then, just skim the rotors)…………..many on the board get vibrations in the steering wheel when braking b/c of pad material transfer…..just slap on a set of Ferodo DS2500…..bed them properly, and you will be VIBRATION FREE (thanks to Jemm and Timcatz).
Here's the link https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hreadid=140451
HTH
2) Do NOT resurface your rotors (unless you change the brake pads….and even then, just skim the rotors)…………..many on the board get vibrations in the steering wheel when braking b/c of pad material transfer…..just slap on a set of Ferodo DS2500…..bed them properly, and you will be VIBRATION FREE (thanks to Jemm and Timcatz).
Here's the link https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hreadid=140451
HTH
I just rotated/balanced my tires. As for uneven wear, that I am not sure. I will need to get new tires soon so maybe I'll wait and see new tires will help. If not, then maybe try replacing the pads.
has anyone ever thought of hub rings? i just recently put on 18x8.5 5zigens and i noticed a major wheel shimmy on freeway driving<above 60 mph>. i called back 2 the palce i had purchased the wheels and tires, and they recommened hub rings. they said that the 5 zigens<along w/ most aftermarket wheels> were hub centric and that my car was lug centric. i put the rings on and hope 2 highway drive 2nite. will post result asap!
Could be DTV generation from lateral runout....in which case you will need to get new rotors or have them turned by a top of the line on-vehicle lathe. Dont let a machine shop do them....the amount of variation here is in the microns.
If you dont brake hard, you might need a corrector lining instead of the more aggressive oem pads. If a pad is too aggressive in terms of wear/temp properties, it is better to brake hard on a semi-regular basis. That being said, you need to investigate the properties of the linings and compare them to your braking style.
BTW...rotors dont "warp" unless you get them EXTREMELY hot and then dont let them cool down properly.
If you dont brake hard, you might need a corrector lining instead of the more aggressive oem pads. If a pad is too aggressive in terms of wear/temp properties, it is better to brake hard on a semi-regular basis. That being said, you need to investigate the properties of the linings and compare them to your braking style.
BTW...rotors dont "warp" unless you get them EXTREMELY hot and then dont let them cool down properly.
I have just gone through all of this myself. I tried everything everyone has suggested above. I have just ordered new rotors and pads. Nothing else has worked, hopefully this solves it.
my car does the same thing and its pretty annoying. I havent tried to rebed them yet but im gonna try. I only have 5000 miles on the car and i have 1000 on new pads. It wont do it on glass smooth roads but "normal" roads it does it. its hard to believe my rotors are warped so im thinking its pad deposit.
If vibration occur during braking then most likely it is due to uneven pad material transfer. But if it's constant vibration at highway speed, it could due to:
1. Tire Uniformity (Radial 1st Harmonic, Radial 2nd Harmonic). The latest Hunter balancer is able to measure tire uniformity.
2. Tire/wheel balance
3. Wheel runout. The latest Hunter balancer is able to measure tire uniformity.
4. Wheel bearing runout
I am an engineer working on tires for a few years and have seen some of the high speed vibration/steering wheel nibble was due to uniformity of tires.
Most of the high performance tire has nylon or kevlar cap that wrap around the tire steel beads on the tread. If the vehicle has been sit for a day or more, it could take more than 5miles to get rid of the flat spot due to nylon or kevlar cap. The cap that wrap around steel bead on the tread is to prevent too much expansion of the steel/rubber under high speed or hgih temperature application and maintain high speed stability/performance.
Just some knowleadge to share.
Any quetions please ask.
1. Tire Uniformity (Radial 1st Harmonic, Radial 2nd Harmonic). The latest Hunter balancer is able to measure tire uniformity.
2. Tire/wheel balance
3. Wheel runout. The latest Hunter balancer is able to measure tire uniformity.
4. Wheel bearing runout
I am an engineer working on tires for a few years and have seen some of the high speed vibration/steering wheel nibble was due to uniformity of tires.
Most of the high performance tire has nylon or kevlar cap that wrap around the tire steel beads on the tread. If the vehicle has been sit for a day or more, it could take more than 5miles to get rid of the flat spot due to nylon or kevlar cap. The cap that wrap around steel bead on the tread is to prevent too much expansion of the steel/rubber under high speed or hgih temperature application and maintain high speed stability/performance.
Just some knowleadge to share.
Any quetions please ask.
Thanks for the info fastevo03.
I think most of us are experiencing vibration (mostly at high speed). I may try the suggestion above and get new pads (apparently the Ferodo DS2500). I just wish I know for sure that replacing the pads will fix the problem since they aren't cheap.
I think most of us are experiencing vibration (mostly at high speed). I may try the suggestion above and get new pads (apparently the Ferodo DS2500). I just wish I know for sure that replacing the pads will fix the problem since they aren't cheap.


