<think AA meeting> Hi, I'm Dragon, and I'm a rotor warper!

No matter what, every car I've owned with the exception of the 01 Prelude SH I owned prior to my Evo and the 94 Cav. beater I used for last winter, I've warped every set of rotors I've come into contact with. This does include my Evo that I've had since the day it came out. I've had the brakes looked at, rotors cut twice, but as always... says nothing is wrong.

I know it's probably a no, but is there a set of rotors (replacements, no big brake kits, I'm not a baller) that are LESS prone to warping then any other? I've been looking at slotted, and slotted & dimpled, and I've been warned for years now that drilled crack...so give me some ideas.

Also, with this change out, I'm gonna need pads too (going to do SS Lines too but not sure which ones yet). I've looked and looked for the last 2 years and am down to Hawk HPS, but I'm not 100% sure if those are the best ones. I don't track my car, but I'd plan to (auto-x, no drag) at least one time this coming year. It's more of a weekend car then a daily driver, and yes, I do a LOT of "spirited" driving when I'm in her!

So anyone is welcome to reply, especially those that have tracked their cars and are kinda hard on their brakes. I like real world experience, not tech breifs on who's the best because they claim to be. Actual usage speaks in higher volumes then some companies written facts.

Thanks...

 

you probably have never warped a single one of them, but instead had uneven pad transfer.

the same link is put up here, time and time again.

Simply go out and bed the pads in again, do some 50-15 and an 80-20 or two, and your problem is solved.

 

More pics & pricing:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156374

 

Very true statement!


Dragon now go ahead and read the below as well.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

Almost true, but that is only putting a band-aid on the real problem. The real problem is keeping your foot on the brakes when you come to a complete stop after the brakes are heated, this causes the pad transfer or the perceived "warpage". If you can stop this, your problem will cease!

Read the article in the link, very good information...

 

ding ding ding!



and +1 for Racing Brake rotors with Pagid pads...

 

i've asked for a price, but at the cost of the ones from rotorpro's, i find it hard to believe that the value can be beat.

 

Yeah I read that once before, but it's odd that I had 2 cars that didn't do it at all, but the other 5 did. I apprecaite the feedback though, thank you very much.

How about some people that have tracked their cars, and driven them home, and maybe even use them as daily drivers? What are your experiences?

 

Mine is tracked on a pad/rotor combo, then swapped for stock pads/rotors.

each time you swap, you get a tiny pulse, but bed them in again, and bam, stopping power.

 

I've had the pad material transfer issue at the track causing pulsation only to have the rotors clean up on the drive home. Some pads are worse than others due to the material they are made out of. Lately I've tried using EBC Yellow stuff which don't stop nearly as well as the Pagid's I was using but don't transfer material because they are kevlar based. The yellow stuff also don't squeal as bad and are relatively cheap. My lap times actually improved with the weaker yellow stuff because I have tendancy to overbrake but I think I will try the Ferodo's next.

 

Which Pagid's did you have?

Try the Ferodo DS3000's next...

 

It's not impossible. It mainly depends on how much heat you're putting into the rotors and how quickly the rotors get rid of it. Evo's, unless anyone's failed to notice, are pretty quick and your brakes work hard as a result. How hard you can brake is also determined by your tyres and the stock yoko's are pretty sticky.

Another thing is that the brakes on the evo are pretty good in terms of feel. If you drive a car with really mushy brake system (long crappy unreinforced rubber hoses) you probably wouldn't notice the material transfer. High profile tyres (suv's for example) also damp some of the vibrations out.