mayhem, broeli, nukblazi: Here is my question, is the way that you guys are mentioning just a temporary means to get the camber to read that high? Meaning after a few bumps on the road does the suspension settle and move back to it's normal state of 1.5-1.8 deg -ve camber? Any of you guys tested after setting it that way and allowed the suspension to settle after a week or so?

 

My opinion: More than one degree of neg camber will cause excessive inside tire wear this is based upon my personal experience on an evo running zero toe and 2 deg of neg camber. Also same experience with other cars before the evo. The front camber only has two positions and is usually around 1/2 deg neg or with the bolt turned it is around 1.75 deg neg. I put on lowering springs and had a couple of the ecentric bolts machined so that I got exactly 1 deg neg in front and back with zero toe all around. Have been running this combo for half of the current tire tread life and no excessive/unusual tire wear. I believe this is the best compromise for handling and good tire wear.

 

I am way freakin late on this response. I watched Robi do it, then repeated. The settings have stuck, you adjust, and tighten the nuts, makes it good. The intial reading was 2.5 /1.5, loosened the upper strut mount nuts (both sides), remeasured 2.0/2.0 and tightened the upper strut mount nuts.

Again, this has been repeatable. Changing to Hoosiers for the track, resetting after track. The camber is going to wear the insides more, the toe out seems to cause slight cupping. I rotate monthly and have been good so far. (This is a 100/day commuter car too)


Later folks

 

I wouldn't say there is an "optimum camber value" for zero toe. It depends on what you are trying to get out of the car. Do you want to minimize understeer? Are you worried about tire wear (even though camber has a minimal effect for common camber values)?