Are your pads pad transfer free?
Are your pads pad transfer free?
Every pad I have tried make that horrible steering wheel vibration under hard braking(track condition) (consecutive 150+ to 60mph braking)
I'm yet to see one that is fade and pad transfer free!
I'm yet to see one that is fade and pad transfer free!
Sounds like the either a inappropriate pad for the track and or you're not bedding the pads and rotors properly. If you’re bedded properly with the correct pad is used the rotor surface should have a polished appearance. WHat do your rotors look like?
Is there no one at your track events with lots of knowledge and experience that can help you out?
BTW, you want transfer material, the rotors work best that way but you should look for even transfer.
Is there no one at your track events with lots of knowledge and experience that can help you out?
BTW, you want transfer material, the rotors work best that way but you should look for even transfer.
Usually if you're swapping pads for the track, you'll still want to try to bed them in if you can. The track pads are initially acting on a rotor with a transfer layer from your street pads.
As far as I know every pad 'transfers' material on to the rotor. When you've got cast iron rotors pressed against a carbon-rich pad at hundreds of degrees something is bound to go across.
The point here is that it's not about avoiding deposits, but to actually get an even distribution of deposits on the face of your rotor. I think 150-60mph is perhaps a little too much. What you want to do is to keep the temperature up but not over heat the brakes. What I found is that just going out and braking really hard a number of times just doesn't do it. A long fast session with some moderate braking usually works. By moderate I mean high-ish pressure and moderate duration. It's very important to get the temp. up and keep it there for a while. Bear in mind also that race pads with higher coefficient of friction will generate heat quicker. If your rotors cannot get rid of that heat it will be more susceptible to local overheating which will lead to uneven deposits.
I have Mu level Max900 with Mu front 2-piece rotors. These pads very easily get your steering wheel shaking because of the crazy friction coefficients. The first 3-400 miles on the new rotors, I've tried everything till one day I took the long way round to my gf at an insane pace for public roads and by the time I got there all the shakes were gone...
The point here is that it's not about avoiding deposits, but to actually get an even distribution of deposits on the face of your rotor. I think 150-60mph is perhaps a little too much. What you want to do is to keep the temperature up but not over heat the brakes. What I found is that just going out and braking really hard a number of times just doesn't do it. A long fast session with some moderate braking usually works. By moderate I mean high-ish pressure and moderate duration. It's very important to get the temp. up and keep it there for a while. Bear in mind also that race pads with higher coefficient of friction will generate heat quicker. If your rotors cannot get rid of that heat it will be more susceptible to local overheating which will lead to uneven deposits.
I have Mu level Max900 with Mu front 2-piece rotors. These pads very easily get your steering wheel shaking because of the crazy friction coefficients. The first 3-400 miles on the new rotors, I've tried everything till one day I took the long way round to my gf at an insane pace for public roads and by the time I got there all the shakes were gone...
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