i recently had my rotors turned because of excessive shaking in steering wheel. now less than 5k miles later the shaking is back. after doing some research it sounds like it could be pad transfer problem. am i ok to "bed" in the brakes at this point to try to smooth things out, or is that only done when putting on new pads and rotors. i want to try to slove this shaking problem w/o spending an arm and leg for whole new setup. also which pads are good for NOT having pad transfer problems? thanks!

 

It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and try and re-bed them. Just find an empty back road and do a couple 30-0 stops and and couple 45-0 stops and then let it cool off.

The pads I use are Hawks and I like them a lot, still a good bite comparable to the stock ones and a lot less brake dust.

 

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP!!! It is very important that you do not come to a complete stop while bedding in your brakes, it will make the problem significantly worse. You want to bed the brakes in somewhere that you can drive around for a while without coming to a complete stop. This will allow the brakes to cool and reduce the chance for excessive pad material build up in one location.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=pad+transfer

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=pad+transfer


The Ferodos are not susceptible to pad transfer.

 

This should help you....

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml

 

I stand corrected.

 

You had the right idea as far as repeated braking, it's just that you if you come to a complete stop, the hot pad will deposit a large amount of material where it rests against the rotor. The goal is to get a very thin and evenly distributed layer of pad material on the entire rotor surface.

-Paul

 

its several 60-10 stops right, not 35-10 right? it seems like 35-10 wouldnt get them hot enough. and so if the bedding does not work.......then what. replace pads and rotors, or just pads or just rotors? thanks again for the advice!

 

35-10 or 60-10 will work, it just depends on what areas you have available to do this. For the first few you want just moderate braking to slowly heat the rotor, then increase brake pressure for a couple to really get them hot. If you don't allow a lot of cooling time between each brake application you can do it going from 35-10. If this does not fix it, I would replace rotors and pads. ************** has great prices on new rotors and I'm currently running Ferodo DS-2500 pads that have been great. One thing you can do to help prevent this in the future is avoid sitting at stop lights or stop signs with your foot on the brake pedal. If the ground is level you can pull your foot off around 2 mph and you will stop within about 5 feet. Not always necessary, but if you had to brake hard to get stopped it's not a bad idea.

-Paul

 

i bedded the brakes today, i havent been up high enough speed to test it out. ive begun looking into replacement rotors anyway just in case. what is a good replacement as the factory brembos are pretty $$$ and prone to warping. anyone have experience w/ powerslot or cryorotors from powerslot? i like the hawk hps alot, i think ill get those.

 

Racing Brake Rotors

 

Cool. You learn something new everyday and it definitely makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.

 

you'll never warp the stock rotors.

If i can get the front calipers to be over 650 degrees, and not warp or wound anything but the fluid partially boiling (ate superblue), and melting my clear coat off of the calipers, you'll never warp them.

rotorpros. they work great, not sure if they're an exact stock unit, or what it is, but they're good, they're cheap, and they have good CS.

 

It is definitely possible to warp the rotors...

I toasted my stockers to the point that it felt that it would shake the wheel out of my hands

Granted that this required repeatedly scrubbing speed from 120MPH in 2 consecutive breaking zones on a relatively short track, lap after lap after lap

(ATE Blue, Stainless lines and Ferodo 2500s)

 

125 to 30 at sebring on the short course, to 100-40, to 80-40, repeat lap. got a good shake outta them, but simply letting everything cool down and a couple taps and they're good as new, simply pad transfer, and it goes away without issue.

rotorpro stock replacements, and endless ccr's