Everything you wanted to know about brake fluid, but were afraid to ask
Nov 14, 2008, 11:45 AM
#17
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I've always been told once u crack open a can u gotta use it up or toss it....now if I were bleeding the brakes at a trackdays wknd of a couple of days...sure I'd use an already freshly opened can, but if I were changing my fluid once a year...I'd start with a new can personally.
Dec 18, 2008, 05:02 AM
#19
From my friends that run ATE - they have to change it more often than I do and a few boil it on the track. If you track the car I would go with the Amsoil. For a DD/AX, the ATE should work out for you, just watch the condition of the fluid and bleed the system regularly (which you should do no matter which fluid).
I run the Amsoil year round on my car. Generally, no bleeding in the winter. Come spring, I flush the system and then bleed before a track day or after a few AXs.
Dec 18, 2008, 11:49 AM
#20
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http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/bf4.aspx
Amsoil DOT 4 580°F/410°F (DRY/WET)
One wet track day and an AX - great feeling overall. Ditched Motul for it. $13ish for 12oz.
Amsoil DOT 4 580°F/410°F (DRY/WET)
One wet track day and an AX - great feeling overall. Ditched Motul for it. $13ish for 12oz.
Absolutely !!!
I will be honest and say that AMSOIL does not manufacture that brake fluid but does post the ACTUAL numbers where a competitor that buys the same exact fluid rates theirs with higher numbers... Amazing ...
Then, the AMSOIL is $10.40 cents for 12 ounces (My discounted price) and the competitors is around $70.00.. FOR THE SAME EXACT THING !!!
Doc
Dec 18, 2008, 11:55 AM
#21
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I've always been told once u crack open a can u gotta use it up or toss it....now if I were bleeding the brakes at a trackdays wknd of a couple of days...sure I'd use an already freshly opened can, but if I were changing my fluid once a year...I'd start with a new can personally.
Brake fluid should be bled once per year and completely flushed every 2 years. You CANNOT tell if brake fluid is bad by looking at it.
You can read more here... http://bestoil4you.com/files/g2476BRAKE_FL.pdf
Doc
Dec 18, 2008, 07:05 PM
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Nice, I'll give amsoil a try. Oil Doc how much shipped to 32712 and how many liters do I need?
What exaclty does bleeding the brakes mean? Do I just drain some fluid from the nipple?
What exaclty does bleeding the brakes mean? Do I just drain some fluid from the nipple?
Dec 18, 2008, 07:40 PM
#25
Doc,
Which of the two Amsoil fluids would you recommend for daily-driven street use with autocross during the summer?
Great thread though! Hopefully this info will be enough to get some of my friends to stop using Motul in their never-tracked street cars
Which of the two Amsoil fluids would you recommend for daily-driven street use with autocross during the summer?
Great thread though! Hopefully this info will be enough to get some of my friends to stop using Motul in their never-tracked street cars
Last edited by Kracka; Dec 18, 2008 at 07:44 PM.
Dec 19, 2008, 08:16 AM
#26
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Brake fluid comes in 12 ounce bottles. 1 bottle is good for bleeding, 2 should be sufficient for a flush, add a third bottle to do your clutch.
If you have never bled brakes before, I would HIGHLY Recommend getting the help from someone that really knows what they are doing. Brakes need to be bled in a certain order for starters and anti-lock systems can cause fits.
We need to talk about that Dealer thing with you again. I think you could do well and I will always be there for you..
I Recommend the DOT 4 Series 600 Fluid... $10.40 per 12 oz Dealer Cost.
I am flushing my vehicles as they come due.. MotorCycle is next...
For ANYONE who has not bled or flushed their systems in 2 years, this is a Highly Critical Maintenance issue. You could lose 40 % of your braking capability within a few years. For your Safety, and the Safety of others, it is a very low cost, relatively easy and Absolutely Necessary Maintenance item !
You CANNOT tell if brake fluid is bad by looking at it... water and brake fluid mix and DO NOT seperate thereby lowering the boiling point of your fluid.
Brake fluid boiling points are measured on two separate
scales:
• Dry equilibrium reflux boiling point (ERBP) - the boiling
point of new, freshly-opened unused fluid
• Wet ERBP - the boiling point of a brake fluid after it has
absorbed three percent water.
The Department of Transportation (DOT) has set minimum
standard requirements to ensure brake fluids will provide
adequate protection. The minimum dry ERBP for
DOT 3 brake fluid is no less than 205°C (401°F), the minimum
wet ERBP is 140°C (284°F). It only takes four water contamination percent
to bring a DOT 3 fluid’s boiling
point down to the federal limit.
The minimum dry ERBP for DOT 4 brake fluid is 230°C
(446°F), the minimum wet ERBP is 155°C (311°F). Their
higher boiling points make DOT 4 fluids appropriate for
high-performance cars and motorcycles, and for vehicles
used for towing. Because brake fluids are hygroscopic,
the wet boiling point is of much greater concern
than the dry boiling point.
See entire Data sheet: http://bestoil4you.com/files/g2476BRAKE_FL.pdf
Dec 19, 2008, 10:35 AM
#28
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Although I know who it is, I will have to make a call and see if we can divulge that info...
That would be just like asking Castrol... I doubt if you would get a legitimate answer..
Doc
That would be just like asking Castrol... I doubt if you would get a legitimate answer..
Doc
Dec 19, 2008, 10:45 AM
#29
I understand. Just I got the feeling you were saying it was the same as the OPs high dollar Porsche stuff (judging by price alone).
Brakes are one thing that I think need to be done right and early. At track speeds, losing your brakes is a very scary feeling (especially on a track with walls). Heck losing your brakes on the street is scary!!
Brakes are one thing that I think need to be done right and early. At track speeds, losing your brakes is a very scary feeling (especially on a track with walls). Heck losing your brakes on the street is scary!!
Dec 19, 2008, 12:39 PM
#30
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I understand. Just I got the feeling you were saying it was the same as the OPs high dollar Porsche stuff (judging by price alone).
Brakes are one thing that I think need to be done right and early. At track speeds, losing your brakes is a very scary feeling (especially on a track with walls). Heck losing your brakes on the street is scary!!
Brakes are one thing that I think need to be done right and early. At track speeds, losing your brakes is a very scary feeling (especially on a track with walls). Heck losing your brakes on the street is scary!!
Well I called Corporate and they asked me not to disclose it... They actually had a very good reason that I agree with and also pased a policy on it a few weeks ago making it a no-no to tell.
I got the word through a Rep from the OEM of the fluid last fall, who would probably get in some big s**t himself..
I can tell you that it is a readily available fluid from a competitor that buys it where we do and the going rate for their fluid is about $69.99 per 12 oz ... Compared to $10.40 for 12 oz of AMSOIL Series 600 from me.. At those prices, I should triple my price, offer free freight and a buy 2 get 1 free and we all would come out ahead.. LOL
To be honest.. I think Brakes on the street are more critical... On a track.. You know, or should know, you are taking your life into your own hands... Your Problem..
On the Street, you are taking innocent peoples lives and putting them at risk.
Merry Christmas "2008"
Doc