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powder coating the BREMBO

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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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powder coating the BREMBO

anyone has done this? what did you have to do? post pics please....

thanks in advance...

-Mark
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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Do they make a powder coat that will withstand that high of temperatures? I'd say it has to be in excess of 1200 degrees. More like 1200-1800 degrees.

Otherwise, only for bling.
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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My powdercoat guy is looking into temps now. He said they offer a high heat resistant powder, but wasn;t sure on what temps it can withstand. I want my DC Sports header powdercoated....when I hear back I will post up.
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
Do they make a powder coat that will withstand that high of temperatures? I'd say it has to be in excess of 1200 degrees. More like 1200-1800 degrees.

Otherwise, only for bling.
Not true. I used to work for a competitor of Brembo, and we used to powdercoat the caliper halves. Your caliper, ONLY under the most extreme circumstances, ie. road racing, should never get above roughly 250-300 degrees. Your ROTOR is what takes all the abuse and heat. There is minimal heat transfer to the caliper itself ecause it has to go through the brake pad, then the pad backing, then the piston, then the seal, then the fluid etc.. You get the point. Powdercoating bakes on (Cures) at roughly 400 degrees, depending on the powder itself.

It is not only for bling as it is 10x more durable than the paint that Brembo uses, and can take small direct hits with a hammer and not chip. One slip while putting on your wheels with the stock painted brembo's puts a nice nick in them. Powdercoating will not.

Plus, it is a cure for the peeling problem. (As an alternative to a denied Mitsu Claim.)

If you are going to disassemble the calipers, here is what you would do:

1. Take caliper off car. (Duh)
2. Drain out as much fluid as possible (Only to keep from making a mess)
3. Take out brake pad pins
4. Remove brake pads
5. Get an air compressor
6. Put a block of wood in the caliper that is roughly 2/3 the size of the inside of the caliper.
7. blow compressed air into the brake caliper fluid line port. (NOTE: if you have your fingers in there when you do that, Darwin will come and visit you.) This is so that you can push the pistons out enough to grab the end with your fingers, and pull them out of their bores.
8. Pull out all pistons.
9. Remove dust boots from pistons/caliper
10. Using a small ***** or something, take out the caliper piston seals inside the piston bores. (DO NOT DAMAGE THE SEALS IN ANY WAY) Use a small pointed, but not sharp object to get them out.
11. Remove the cross over tube (transfer tube)
12. Separate the caliper halves. (4 bolts, I believe)
13. Clean up your mess.


Now, your powdercoater should know enough to NOT DO THE FOLLOWING
1. Do not get any powdercoating in the piston bores.
2. Do not powdercoat where the caliper halves mate together (their mating surfaces)
3. Do not powdercoat inside the threaded holes, unless you have a tap to get all of it out after it's powdercoated.


Ummmm, reassemble everything after you get it all back.

A few more notes:

1. When reassembling the pistons into their piston bores:
a. Put the dust boot onto the piston first, then lube the outside of the piston with brake fluid or something like an assembly lube that is compatable with brake fluid.
b. Press brake piston into bore GENTLY. It shouldn't require a lot of force, so if you are forcing it in, then you are fu(king it up. Pull it back out and start over.
c. Umm, don't screw anything else up. And torque the caliper halve bolts back together to proper specifications. (Don't know what that is)

Let meknow if you have any more questions. (FYI, I used to be the Quality Assurance Manager for a reputable aftermarket brake system manufacturer.)

Last edited by tkklemann; Nov 22, 2006 at 10:41 AM.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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Bad bad idea for what is posted above...

It was told to us by a gentleman who works AT BREMBO, that taking the calipers apart will DAMAGE them beyond repair. They are not meant to be disassembled like this.

If you want to disassemble them otherwise, just leave them together.

I boil my Motul RBF600 fluid in my calipers which is rated to 600 degrees. How do you think it only gets to 250-300?

How does the brembo paint turn to "brownbos" if it can withstand that heat?

I generally think it would be a bad idea.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 02:36 AM
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yeah, erm, for grins, i never come in without at least some cooldown, but when i do...

infared temp gun says 400 degrees rear calipers and 360-370 fronts.

and thats after say 2-3 miles of cooling @ 60 mph.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:12 AM
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I do a lot of powdercoating for people on this board. I can do a powder coat that will take up to 1000F. As far as taking them apart I am not so sure that it is necccesary. If the seals can take 400 degrees at the track I am sure that they will survive 350 in my oven for 20 minutes!
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:20 AM
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i wouldnt say my seals are in the best shape by any means, haha.

But a 350 degree cure, is good for 1000? interrrrreeeeeeeeeesting.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
Bad bad idea for what is posted above...

It was told to us by a gentleman who works AT BREMBO, that taking the calipers apart will DAMAGE them beyond repair. They are not meant to be disassembled like this.

If you want to disassemble them otherwise, just leave them together.

I boil my Motul RBF600 fluid in my calipers which is rated to 600 degrees. How do you think it only gets to 250-300?

How does the brembo paint turn to "brownbos" if it can withstand that heat?

I generally think it would be a bad idea.


I used to work in several aftermarket companies, and the only thing that Brembo is doing is advising you to not screw around with their product. We used to do the same thing at my last place of business, recommend customers to NOT disassemble their products because it creates a liability problem between the end user and the manufacturer.

That is not bad advice, Brembo is simply trying to cover their asses when it comes to and end user screwing around with the product.

I have 110% confidence in what I say because I used to do it for a living. The only question that arises as a result of this is the integrity of the caliper upon reassembly by the untrained customer. It doesn't matter that at guy AT BREMBO told you to not take them appart because being the Quality Assurance Manager at the company I used to work at, I would have told you the exact same thing knowing full well that as long as the proper REASSEMBLY techniques were used, it wasn't a problem. On the same logic, what kind of answer do you think Mitsubishi would give you if you called them and asked them about taking apart you car. I am certain they would give you the same answer, but we still do anyways. Same situation.

The 250-300 might have been a small underestimate on my part, whick I appologize for, as another board member has shown.

Anyhow, I am going to be doing this on my car as my calipers are peeling really bad. Shall I take the time and do a complete writeup and show you all that it is a perfectly safe thing to do, as long as your reassembly is OK?
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 05:00 AM
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^ do it... do it... I really want to see it.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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+1
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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+3, +4, +5.....
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 06:01 AM
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tkklemann
Anyhow, I am going to be doing this on my car as my calipers are peeling really bad. Shall I take the time and do a complete writeup and show you all that it is a perfectly safe thing to do, as long as your reassembly is OK?
YES please. My driver's side just started to peal and it drives me crazy every time I wash or even look at that wheel.
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