Negatives of Megan Coilover?
I switched from JIC FLT-A2s to Megan Track series months ago for my track setup and am very happy with them...actually in preference over the JIC. I believe they rival the performance of units easily twice their price.
Yes...there is a list of good reasons to buy more expensive coilovers, which any pro race team could easily outline for you. But with the continued rapid advances and lower costs in material and manufacturing technologies coupled with immense retail competition, that list is growing shorter by the month.
Most coilovers are built with similar materials, basic design, and construction while they are varied in capacity, dimension and valving. The majority of what you pay for is the research and testing they have done combined with with the competition experience.
As more people begin to race budget setups, the level of knowledge (research) that can be applied to the budget hardware increases. This begins to slowly close the performance gap between low and high dollar hardware.
As for noises, as long as parts are not faulty and are properly torqued, there should be no "clunking". But what happens with coilovers is the collars work loose over time from vibration and allow either spring play or the body to move within the bottom mount. This causes a clunk when the suspension loads/unloads, and can also contribute to strange handling and bad alignment characteristics.
Although there is Locktite that is safe for Aluminum, I would not advise it on the treaded bodies. I and others have found that the collars will stay put if you have them tight enough.
Regards,
Ethan
Yes...there is a list of good reasons to buy more expensive coilovers, which any pro race team could easily outline for you. But with the continued rapid advances and lower costs in material and manufacturing technologies coupled with immense retail competition, that list is growing shorter by the month.
Most coilovers are built with similar materials, basic design, and construction while they are varied in capacity, dimension and valving. The majority of what you pay for is the research and testing they have done combined with with the competition experience.
As more people begin to race budget setups, the level of knowledge (research) that can be applied to the budget hardware increases. This begins to slowly close the performance gap between low and high dollar hardware.
As for noises, as long as parts are not faulty and are properly torqued, there should be no "clunking". But what happens with coilovers is the collars work loose over time from vibration and allow either spring play or the body to move within the bottom mount. This causes a clunk when the suspension loads/unloads, and can also contribute to strange handling and bad alignment characteristics.
Although there is Locktite that is safe for Aluminum, I would not advise it on the treaded bodies. I and others have found that the collars will stay put if you have them tight enough.
Regards,
Ethan
Last edited by ez; Jan 11, 2007 at 01:07 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: IL, USA
Actually the price of materials has gone up quite a bit lately.
The real list of reasons why someone would purchase your typical $1k/corner setup over a $1000 complete set is very short, and not likely to change. Which is fine, because the $1000 complete setup is not meant to compete in any way with the $1k/corner setup (and anyone who tells you otherwise is trying to sell you something...).
The real list of reasons why someone would purchase your typical $1k/corner setup over a $1000 complete set is very short, and not likely to change. Which is fine, because the $1000 complete setup is not meant to compete in any way with the $1k/corner setup (and anyone who tells you otherwise is trying to sell you something...).
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: IL, USA
Clicking during turns is usually indicative of a busted cv joint. I don't see how it would be possible for a spring to produce a clicking noise under any circumstance.
The noise has been the same for about eight months now. It's not a rotating noise, it's more of a binding noise.
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 642
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From: IL, USA
An easy way to do this is to take the spring off of the assembly and install it, with just the shock alone. With the car up in the air on jackstands, compress and extend the suspension manually while checking for anything that may bind or rub during this travel. Also have someone turn the wheel to some-what simulate a cornering situation.
Check the wheel wells for rubbing of the tires as well.
Actually the price of materials has gone up quite a bit lately.
The real list of reasons why someone would purchase your typical $1k/corner setup over a $1000 complete set is very short, and not likely to change. Which is fine, because the $1000 complete setup is not meant to compete in any way with the $1k/corner setup (and anyone who tells you otherwise is trying to sell you something...).
The real list of reasons why someone would purchase your typical $1k/corner setup over a $1000 complete set is very short, and not likely to change. Which is fine, because the $1000 complete setup is not meant to compete in any way with the $1k/corner setup (and anyone who tells you otherwise is trying to sell you something...).
