Fabulous71

I have been reading all these threads about warped brake rotors with interest. I am in this boat, although I am quite sure I have a warped rotor and not brake deposit. When I am coming to a complete stop, the car has a slight uneven 'movement' to it while braking, which is a telltale sign of warpage. The steering wheel has a really bad vibration when I brake hard, but is pretty normal under reg driving conditions.

So I have an appointment tomorrow morning at Southcoast Mitsubishi. I have a buddy who just went to his Suby dealer and they found hot spots on the edges of his rotors. They are replacing his front rotors and pads for free and gave him a rental car until completed. His STI has at least 15K miles on it. It will be interesting to see if Southcoast steps to the plate as Santa Monica Subaru did for him. My brakes have 7200 miles on them--unacceptable for a warped rotor of any kind.

If anyone has any feedback on a bad brake claim with Southcoast, please reply. I will post this weekend as to what they will do for me.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Rebed.

You can't get the brakes hot then sit at a red light with your foot on the brake.

theblue

iTrader: (1)

modern rotors don't warp!!!!!! they wear unevenly and get deposits. you can either get them turned and/or bed them in again. or just replace them

JoizeeX

those who are still having those problems - have you looked at just how thick the front rotors are? coming from a teggy, my evo rotors are almost as big as stock teg's steel rims! and 1.5 times thicker, and i never had warpage on the teg.

The only problem with rotors i'm having is the fronts being ground away by the OEM pads. I'll have to replace pads and rotors by the end of this year because the rotors are getting pretty thin. Other than that, i've been able to rebed and fix shaking EVERY time, even if it took a week or so to git 'er dun. I can slow her down from 90 to 10 with steering staying solid as a rock even while braking at threshold where ABS is about to kick in. I even get visible pad deposits when i have no choice but to sit at a light, however, i never feel that material when i brake later on.

so please don't give up on that, although it IS possible that some rotors may have a defect. just don't rush to conclusions.

NMRY EJ6

iTrader: (1)

I like to add to this comment. I had my brakes and rotors replaced at 11-12k miles and the service advisor were pretty cool about it, and so was the technician that worked on my car there. Please let me know what your outcome is because I called them today as well with the same problem all over again. I have an appointment next Friday.

I also agree with you on the fact that these rotors/pads seem to fail so quick. I've done the bed-rebed procedure and haven't had any luck with that procedure. Completely unceptable that we pay for a 30k car and our brakes give up so quick. My 2cents.

edit** my car is now at 17k miles. i know lost these rotors and pads quicker than before. That's were I don't understand what's goin on. I'm tired of it. Freaking car feels like is shaking like an 8.0 earthquake while braking.

evrblazin

update:

1. the dealer was a f_cking joke, as we expected.

i drove down there for a tech to tell me i had warped rotors and they needed to be re-surfaced. i say "um okay how much is that?" tech says about $280. i LMAO. then this bald a$$hole (who's job it is to carry an invoice to teh cashier aka service mgr.) charges me $26 for a brake inspection. It's all good caus that will be the last time I go to the dealer. ever for anything.


i have bed my pads properly per senoir recommendations and stoptech article. still i say wft is up with my rotors?? i'm going project mu soon for pads then, if no improvement, a slight turn of the oem rotor. after that well isht...

i'm about to beat the pi$$ out of these (stock) pads this weekend then park my whip without the e-brake or touching my brakes (after beating the pi$$ out of them) for a long long time.

i'll keep ya posted...

evrblazin

omg... my origional post is so funny wtf was I thinking?? rotfl

evrblazin

well hopefully anyone reading this knows this is the last thing, one would want to do, after hard braking, trying to bed the pads. this would defeat the entire process of evening out the transfer layer on the rotor..

naucrx

iTrader: (19)

Sounds like its time for new rotors. Powerslot if you're on a budget... But I personally recommend the DBA's. 60k on mine and not one shake since I put them on.

red2003evo8

they arent like they said they are considered a wear and tear item once it rolls off the lot it is your responsibility

sponge bob

iTrader: (3)

Almost all vibrations are caused by uneven pad material deposits on the rotors. This can sometimes be seen by the naked eye if its bad enough. Sometimes the problem is so bad no amount of brake pad bedding or resurfacing will cure/totally cure the problem.

I learned a long time ago if I treat the rotors properly I will never have this issue. Whenever possible I brake moderately hard and I never leave my foot on the pedal if it’s avoidable. When coming to a stop I lift my foot from the pedal just before car stops rolling and let it roll a few inches stopping on its own. If because of the surface grade or traffic flow I can’t do that then I make a complete stop then lift off the pedal.

Sometimes on a grade it will roll, well then your just stuck with it.

I here this complaint more frequently with the EVO then other cars I have owned. This must be an issue with the factory brake pad compounds and people just not driving their performance car like a performance car.

I find using a well managed driving technique, good performance street pads (I use Bobcats right now but others are good) and use moderate braking I never have serious vibration issue.

JoizeeX

agreed with mr. squarepants above.

it seems like the people who have the problem remain after multiple rebeddings are stuck with a rotor that has pad material permanently embedded unevenly. I believe the Stoptech article or some other thread covers that. Once the pad material is etched in, it's only gonna get worse from then on as more material gets deposited in those spots.

I also have to agree that this is indeed our responsibility as owners...if you're past a certain mileage, don't count on the dealer to fix a wear and tear item.

with my driving, i barely use the brakes on the street, so they don't get hot enough and i think that's actually what grinds the rotors away so fast since the pads are not up to temps. However, as i stated before, i never had a shaking problem that i couldn't get rid of.

DBA rotors are rather cheap and it's something most people can replace themselves, so good luck to those who still have the problem.

Fabulous71

Went to the Southcoast Mitsubishi this morning, it turned out both of my front rotors were warped! I spoke with the service mgr, he resurfaced both rotors, pads were left alone at 50% and they gave me a free oil change. They pretty much took care of me.

The steering wheel vibration is gone, and more important, I don't have the slow rotational warped feel when the car comes to a stop. Hopefully it will hold up under hard braking.

NMRY EJ6

iTrader: (1)

did the service mgr give you instructions on how to brake them in??? He gave me instructions after my repairs my last time there. I followed them to a tee, but encountered the same problem to reacure a few months later.

drano7823

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like wear