Spring Install
). If you change to a thinner sway bar, the rear end will not tend to come around.... I'm not sure how the EVO would respond to sway bar changes, but the handling can change a lot by changing sway bars. In my Miata, it's not such a good idea to get thicker sway bars for the rear as the car will oversteer. A thicker sway bar in the front will make the car corner flatter. Stiffer springs will help handling a lot in a smooth track but will make the car fairly undriveable in the city streets of most towns...
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Massachusetts
Ok, Put my springs in and it all went pretty easy but I am now getting the clicking noise in on my drivers side strut. I did a search and noticed a lot of people have this problem and most of the answers were " is the spring seated right" and mine are. So the only thing I can think of is maybe it is in upside down, but I put them in the way the old ones came out and that was with the on the bottow coils it had the plastic covering, front and back. What I did notice though is on the rears you can read Tein upright but on the front the writing is upside down that is why I am thinking I put them in upside down because everything else looks good, but again it's only on the drivers side and I put them in exactly the way the stock ones came out. Any help would be great.
i am almost certain that the tein read upside down on the front and upright on the rear. did you torque everything to spec? if not i would get a torque wrench and torque everthing.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 89
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From: Massachusetts
yes, everything is torqued down to spec. I had my wife turn the wheel and I watched the spring and what it looks like is happening is that the strut is turning like it should but then the top mount stops and the strut keeps turning causing the spring to bind up.
when i had this problem, the spring wasn't seated right so i took it apart and made sure everything was in place again. it worked for me but that was on a set of eibachs.(not like that matters)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 89
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From: Massachusetts
I've taken this thing apart about 5 times and remounted the spring and it still makes the same noise. Did you regrease the bearing on the top spring mount?
I installed my Espiler GT springs today.
Front: I loosened the strut nut with a breaker bar by giving it a couple of good pulls while the car was still on the ground. However, I did mess up when cutting the bump stops...I cut the upper part to keep the boot cover for the and when I put it back on, the bump stop slid all the way down. I didn't know that you can remove the boot thing. I went ahead and cut the other side to match and let the bump stop slide all the way down. Do you guys think this could be a problem?
Rear: I had to use and impact wrench to remove the strut nut. I did use a the same impact wrench to tighten the strut bolt, but it's the kind that you plug in to the cig lighter of the car, so I can't image it being that bad. Do you guys think I could have damaged the strut? Also, the bolt holding the lateral link to the hub was incredibly difficult to remove on both sides. I had to use PD Blaster and even then it was tough. I was able to cut the bump stops correctly in the rear...I just cut them right in half.
Sorry for long winded post. Thanks.
Front: I loosened the strut nut with a breaker bar by giving it a couple of good pulls while the car was still on the ground. However, I did mess up when cutting the bump stops...I cut the upper part to keep the boot cover for the and when I put it back on, the bump stop slid all the way down. I didn't know that you can remove the boot thing. I went ahead and cut the other side to match and let the bump stop slide all the way down. Do you guys think this could be a problem?
Rear: I had to use and impact wrench to remove the strut nut. I did use a the same impact wrench to tighten the strut bolt, but it's the kind that you plug in to the cig lighter of the car, so I can't image it being that bad. Do you guys think I could have damaged the strut? Also, the bolt holding the lateral link to the hub was incredibly difficult to remove on both sides. I had to use PD Blaster and even then it was tough. I was able to cut the bump stops correctly in the rear...I just cut them right in half.
Sorry for long winded post. Thanks.
Last edited by subaruwrx420; Feb 25, 2007 at 08:17 PM.
pic of spring compressor, and here is a link to installing your springs http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...1736629e007905
When doing to rears, be sure to mark the top before removing - it'll save time in the re-install; trust me! As for the shock itself, the mitsu writing points inward.
I used the EvoMoto writeup as well, and things went fine. As a note, you only need the spring compressors for the front. And you'll need deeped welled 14, 17 and 19mm sockets for the job. 21mm for the tires if you don't use the stock lugwrench as well.
When doing to rears, be sure to mark the top before removing - it'll save time in the re-install; trust me! As for the shock itself, the mitsu writing points inward.
When doing to rears, be sure to mark the top before removing - it'll save time in the re-install; trust me! As for the shock itself, the mitsu writing points inward.
read step number 6 in this thread http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...1736629e007905 the reason you mark the bolt is for proper configuration when reinstalling