I've had a clunking noise from the right rear for a while now, and when installing my rear swaybar I noticed the ball joint boot was oozing goo, see pic. so I'm pretty sure I found my problem.
Sooo, after searching and searching and finding only two threads I thought I'd ask again.

1. Has anyone been able to replace the ball joint alone(the manual implies you need to replace the whole control arm)

2. If I do need to, how difficult is it to replace? The manual talks about some goofy ball joint removal tool.

3. Would it be worthwhile to replace either of the bushings while I'm at it? It would feel weird busting out a brand new bushing from a brand new $212 part.

I'm about to just go ahead and order one, $211.97 is not that bad, but just thought I'd see if anyone had any thoughts.

Thanks

 

Part number? It looks like you are talking about the toe link (judging from the picture) and not the upper ball joint. Have you lifted the car from underneath the lower control arm (loaded suspension) and checked to see if there is ball joint play? A torn boot does not necessarily mean that it is bad. That happens when someone gets overzealous with a pickle fork among other reasons. A few more details would be helpful.

JB

 

That has happened to my car and a couple friends too. Maybe they overfill them at the factory? Who knows, no problems here though.

The bushings on the UCA aren't really worth replacing either, the OEM ones are nice.

 

OK, no I haven't tested it for play, but the RR has been making noise for a while. Here is a clip from the manual so you can see what the pic is of.

 

All right, I went and ordered it and received the control arm today and went to install the damn thing and......

Everything came apart easily enough, all nuts and bolts out in about a half hour, so the thing's all loose and floppin around, cool right. Except the ball joint shaft is stuck in the brake assembly, damn it. I whacked it pretty good, but not too hard incase I had to put her back together, which I did. I noticed that the new ball joint shaft is tapered to "wedge" into the brake assembly, so I realize its not supposed to come out easily, but it should come out.

So, my question to you all is....is there a tool I need to get that **** out of there?

Thx for any suggestions

 

Ball joint remover, It's a big fork you wedge in there that you can get at the auto parts store for like $10.

So I just replaced my rear upper control arm. My question is this, how do I tighten the new ball joint nut, it just spins the ball joint instead of tightening. Anyone? Spanks.

 

Put as much force (weight) on the ball joint as you possibly can and slowly tighten the nut. Once it gets forced in there enough, the tapered portion will provide enough friction to torque the nut down.

 

In this case you can use a pickle fork, but there is honestly no need to buy that thing. Just give the spindle (cast iron portion that the balljoint goes into) a couple of hard wacks with a dead blow (ie heavy) hammer after you have the nut for the ball joint loose. The shock will let the ball joint come right out of the spindle.

Note you can do this when removing arms to do bushings and not cause any damage to your ball joint or the boot. Never use a pickle fork if you plan on reusing the ball joint.

If you absolutely can not get a ball joint out with the hammer on spindle method get a proper ball joint removal tool like this:

Which puts pressure on the head of the joint (ie threaded end) and the spindle. This way the ball of the joint which is under the boot is not damaged. A lot of auto part stores will rent this to you.

Hope that helps people

 

how much was that arm btw? I think I may have to replace mine soon too.

 

Thanks guys. I was able to get it all back together, thanks. The arm was around $220 shipped. I got it from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214331

 

Thank you for posting this, now I don't have to look up torque specs!

 

This is a good post with great info. Please zoom in on the link in question. where the "7 " is the bushing has a 2 bolt bar thru it to tie to the frame.

That bushing is bonded in place from the factory and is used as a torsion spring. Do not think it is tight and try to brake it loose. It is designed as a torsion spring to limit travel.

Some of the Rally guys do replace with special parts but the spring rates must be adjusted to compensate. Whiteline also sells apress in poly bearing and bar but IMHO just get the stock bonded part.

Also you should be aware that they should be changed in pairs...one wears the other is not far behind...Its an Evo and it does cost to play..

Fortunately if the dust boot is just NG, you can get those from russell at Mitsubishiparts.net..very inexpensive

 

no problems with the fuel filler neck getting in the way? the 4/5/6 evo I know sure makes it a PAIN to get the rear bolt out.

 

I'm having nothing but issues with the damn fuel filler neck getting in the way I cant get the bolt in.