I plan to build wood spacers and bolt them on to find the optimum front and rear spacing. Judging by my past spacer experience, Im taking a guess and going with about 20mm front and back. Looking at the stockers more and more, with 20 front/back, the front will have a wider track than the rears... slightly. Currently looks as if the factory setup is already wider in the front.

This info will be available shortly (next 2 weeks or so). I will get the track measurement today if possible.

 

Thats a good idea.

Ive been looking at the car since I posted this and I've finally realized why the car looks so weak to me and its because the wheels tuck like 1 inch behind the fenders...

Anyone know the max spacer you can run without adding extended lugs???

 

Running with H&R spacers (oh btw, only one I recommend... proven on many race cars) you wont need to extend the factory ones. Essentially, the spacer bolts to the hub, and the wheel bolts to spacer.

They are milled out of billet, and the hubcentric rings are already built in.

 

I wouldn't bother with rear spacers. Ideally you want the front track wider, adding more grip to the rear (which IMO has tons of grip) isn't going to help the handling balance of the car.

 

Nope that was me. 10mm spacer in front on top of 10.5" wheels in the front. Rears are 9.5" with no spacer.

 

Anyone have opinions on the how this could cause extra stress on suspension components and what effect that would have overall?

Thx

 

i was wondering if this type of set up applies for dd, im planning on getting some wheels with an agresive offset and some info on spacer would help just in case i need them,wheels will be 9 or 9.5 with 29 off set ,what you think ,any help would be apreciated,thanx

 

I cant imagine it being any worse than wheels with the desired offset. The spacer itself cant really weigh that much (some kind of aluminum and magnesium mixture). Do I see any damage down the road? No. There are numerous race car that run these particular spacers, on various other cars (again noone running stockers with spacers). Although most were not AWD vehicles.

In other news: I got some measurements today. I measured from outside edge of tire to outside edge, front and back. The tires are Kumho ASX's in the factory size, inflated to 36psi all around.

The fronts measured 68.75"..
The rears measured 68.50"... Give or take an 1/8" on either.

Due to the weight in the front end, we will go ahead and lopp off the additional 1/4" on the front (for sidewall flex), and call it 68.50" for both front and back. So essentially, they are exactly the same track, front to back. Of course we could have measured from the centers of the wheels, but this well work just as well (given the same measurement tactic on thefront and rear).

The tire on both is nearly .75" away from the fender (give or take .055"). Ya do the math to convert it to mm, and you get 19mm. Being that I measured from the sidewall flex to the fender says, we will have at least another mm before it actually rubs the fender.

In the end: I plan to order 4 - 20mm spacers from H&R. Dead on with my guess too . I'll probably place the order sometime in the next few weeks, so Ill definately let everyone know. If I was correct, the track will be nearly 1.5" +/- .15 wider in front and back, plus flush the wheel/tire with the fender.

Hope it all makes sense.

-Rich

 

Beside looks there's no reason for spacers in the rear. Rear spacers will also make fitting wider rims a pain.

 

I cant say for sure that tracking the rear out will make any major difference, or even more or equal of a difference than the front. When I spaced out my factory wheels on my Jetta (MKIV, 17" wheel, 225/45/17s), it definately made a difference on turn in and exit speeds.

We plan to run spacers for the factory wheels. Even if we wanted to get new wheels, the spacers unbolt from hub. The big plus is this is not a permanent mod, and can always be reveresed.

 

I think it defeats the purpose of having a wider front end if you also extend the rear the same amount. Maybe I am wrong.

When measuring the front track was the car loaded? Where did you measure from on the wheel? Im just thinking of how camber can affect the measurement.

 

Measure from the axle line, it is the most accurate way.

dont forget to order longer wheel studs with the spacers. +20mm if you are running 20 mm spacers. H&R should have them.

It will be interesting to see IF 20mm will fit on the rears without rolling the fenders or rubbing.

BTW toe in on rear adds understeer, zero toe in rear is where you want to be at to rotate. Toe out on front in moderation helps with turn initial turn in,but I would not go more than 1/16 toe out on a street car dd. It will add wear to the tires. Defintely use the Whiteline bump steer kit in the rear to reduce toe change under bump. And also the Whiteline front roll center kit to manage geometry better.

Milburn

 

Car was sitting inside a pretty flat shop. I measured from edge to edge of the tire (sidewall flex). This is just a rough number. The most accurate number would have been center of wheel or center of hub. I dont have coilovers so as far as Im concerned, its the factory settings.

I dont see the need for longer wheel studs. The spacers are machined in a fashion that the use of the factory lugs are sufficient.

Its possible it wont rub. But then again its pretty close at a .75" spacing. I guess the only way to find out is to order a set of the spacers. Worst case... Ill bust out a Slugger .

 

What are you going to do with that thing?

 

Track Days. And once the car is done i will possibly do some time attacks. It is the exact same setup down to the tires as the Cyber EVO