I'm attempting to string my car with jack stands and my measurements are indicating that the front track width is 1/2" wider than the rear, but Mitsu's site says the track width is the same front and rear. Not sure if I've got the car strung wrong, or the front track width really is wider. Has anyone else measured?

Thanks.

 

Rich,
I think the rear track width can vary based on where your rear camber is set. Using the eccentric the bottom of the hub is rotated inward/outward to achieve the desired camber. This may change the track width depending upon where the center of the hub is in relation to the points it is rotating about.

Also note the suspension gains track width under bump to a point and then begins to lose it again so that will affect your numbers as well based on how much you have dropped each end of the car.

Fun ins't it?!


John

 

I didn't think of that, but that makes perfect sense and reinforces that the camber has to be set accurately before running the strings to set toe.

Thanks!

 

Oh, one other pretty basic question (never done this before): When you adjust camber, do you do it with the tire on the ground or up in the air?

Thanks.

 

^^^^On the ground. Suspenion has to be loaded.

 

Just to be clear, I know that camber has to be measured with the suspension loaded, but is it recommended to adjust the camber setting with the suspension loaded (vs. changing it with the tire off the ground and then dropping it to measure, and then lifting and changing it again and then dropping again to measure, etc.).

 

A couple more notes.

1) REAR Camber and toe are tied together on this car. Typically if you adjust rear camber and then toe, the camber will change during toe adjustment. Can be a little frustrating at times.

2) I adjust front camber in the air, it is murder (IMO) on the camber plates if the car is on the ground. I have JUST enough room to slide under the rear and so I do that on the ground.

3) You must bounce each end of the car after putting it back on the ground and also roll the car (preferably back then forward) before re-checking toe. This will make sure the tires are in their normal position, otherwise the grip of the tire won't allow it to go right back to "normal". If you want to be extra **** make sure your ride heights are at their proper setting before rechecking toe.

4) String sag a little. Make sure your front and rear measurements on each wheel are done at the same height, otherwise camber is going to alter your toe measurement.

5) Always do your alignment on the same diameter wheels. This is important since toe in inches changes when measuring at different diameters.

I would also note there is good info here:

http://www.smartracing.net/alignment.htm

Read the owner's manual.

It can be a pain, but it is def satisfying in the end.