Ok so I am planning on Muellerizing my IX. I am going to get the JIC's and run a RE30 18x9.5 +34 Wheel and 265/35/18 Falken RT-615. (Same wheel size as the Muellerized Race Evo) Anyways, the good people at Mueller are telling me to fit my wheels with the proper suspension specs they are going to have to roll and pull my fenders, which WILL result in cracked paint. Making Jefe scared and when Jefe gets scared he talks in 3rd person.

I am here to ask everyone for photos of the cracking, and information on how you fixed the cracking.

Just tips and tricks would be awesome. I am a cosmetic crazy, ill lose sleep over cracked fenders. I wash/wax my car every 4-5d days, to give you an idea of how bad it is. OCD!

Anyways I searched and searched and searched with a flash light and couldn't come up with any helpful info.

So spread it on!

Thanks you.

-Jefe

 

You can easily roll rear fenders without cracking the paint, if you just take your time and heat it up. Ive done it to 4 cars already without any issues.

Fronts are little different, since the lip is much thinner. I was able to roll them all the way in, but I slightly cracked them on the very edge of the lip. You can't see it from outside and the cracks are not as damaging as you may think. There are only tiny visible lines on the very edge. Nothing is pealing or chipping away.

I will take some picks later tonight ( have to do an oil change ) and will post them tomorrow.

 

Anyone know of a Mitsu Body Master in So Cal, who can roll my fenders for my 9.5" Wheel; properly.

 

Rolling is one thing, pulling is quite another. I'm surprised you need to pull the fenders for that size wheel - must be the +34 offset as opposed to the +40ish of the nt03's. I run an 18x9.5 + 30 in the back with a 265/35 RE01r's and it doesn't rub. I have not driven the car hard though so I can't say it won't rub 100%.

 

If you use a heat gun, and do it slowly, the paint will not crack.

 

Hmmm if your running a 265/35 in the rear +30, I should be good with the +34. Mueller is doing my suspension so for tuning purposes, the suspension needs to cycle freely. Thats why I am doing it. I could shave them myself, is that a better option? I am pretty handy with a dremel tool.

 

I got mine done by someone who does them all the time, heated it up, etc... and STILL cracked the paint off the lip. didn't bother fixing it, because you can't see it.

 

But do i need to pull with a 9.5 wide wheel and 265/35 tire?

 

Never heard of "pulling". I went just up to a measly 255/40/17 tire. Totally different league then you "big meat" fellas!

 

Just to add a little fuel to the fire here...would +28 possibly be a better offset to run than the +34 with that type of setup. I am also looking at a very similiar setup...but I was told only fender rolling would be needed on the rear.

 

They may be telling you that it will crack the paint just to protect themselves and set your expectations low. With a heat gun and a fender roller, it's possible to do it without damaging the paint.

 

I have rolled and pulled many many fenders...however the paint on the evos don't seem to be the most resilient.
I have used a hammer on some of the nissans, and the paint didn't crack or chip...

On my personal evo, I have rolled and pulled the fender approximately 5mm.
Even with the use of a heat gun, I did get some cracked paint on the bottom ( you can't see it...) however I still sanded the area down and got Duplicolor touch up paint / primer and clear to prevent rust.
the second fender, I used a blow torch... worked slightly better, however there was still slight cracking.
Like someone mentioned, it is "possible" to roll fenders without any cracking...however it's not 100%

 

isn't +28 going to sit further out than the +34? Cause more pulling and rolling on the +28 as opposed to +34....

 

Why does everyone who rolls and pulls fenders live on the east coast... grrr

 

Well from what I have gathered +28 is better for the front as it wont rub the inner plastic and it sits farther away from the suspension which some have had trouble with +34 and 265's I guess. On the rear I read +34 is better because it is less likely to rub the quarter panel but then it gets somewhat close to the struts/coilover also. I guess it mainly depends on what tire you run and what coilover you have. To me I believe +34 is a better offset because if it rubs on the suspension or something else you can always add like 3mm or 5mm hubcentric spacers if it came to that. I'm still confused somewhat so I hope somebody chimes in that runs a similiar type of setup.