Cursed Rust! Need some ideas.
#1
Cursed Rust! Need some ideas.
In the process of replacing my dampers with new stock ones I notice the passenger side lower control arm rear bearing is pulling out of the housing. So I proceed to remove the vertically oriented bolt from the rear attachment point of the control arm. NP
I move on the front of the control arm that has the horizontal oriented bolt.
Electric impact----Nothing ok
Maybe the rubber of the bushing is taking up all the energy so I go to the breaker bar and I THINK! I broke loose the nut to bolt thread connection but it seems that the inner diameter of the bushing is seized to the bolt.
Pneumatic impact at max pressure----Nothing
Using the breaker bar just winds up the bushing rubber.
Any ideas?
I move on the front of the control arm that has the horizontal oriented bolt.
Electric impact----Nothing ok
Maybe the rubber of the bushing is taking up all the energy so I go to the breaker bar and I THINK! I broke loose the nut to bolt thread connection but it seems that the inner diameter of the bushing is seized to the bolt.
Pneumatic impact at max pressure----Nothing
Using the breaker bar just winds up the bushing rubber.
Any ideas?
Last edited by detroit evo; Aug 28, 2007 at 04:09 AM.
#2
try lots of penitrating lubricants. Like pb blater or screwloose work the best. Keep spraying it and give it time to soak in. That nut is welded to the subframe so it should not spin. I took me some time to get this bolt free when I did it but I was using a good impact gun.
#5
No, I don't need to use the bolt again. I am sure the dealer will take my money for a new one with a smile.
Are you thinking Sawsall?
The last resort on my list is to sawsall the bolt along both sides. Probably destroying the bushing as well.
Plan A--PB Blaster and impact/breakerbar
Plan B--Heat with MAPP torch, impact/breakerbar
Plan C-- Drop crossmember and use breakerbar and impact carry the whole crossmember to a shop with a bigger impact.
Plan D-- Left hand drill down center of bolt.
.
.
.
.
Plan X Sawall the bolt and the control arm if necessary. Replace with all new control arm and bolt
Are you thinking Sawsall?
The last resort on my list is to sawsall the bolt along both sides. Probably destroying the bushing as well.
Plan A--PB Blaster and impact/breakerbar
Plan B--Heat with MAPP torch, impact/breakerbar
Plan C-- Drop crossmember and use breakerbar and impact carry the whole crossmember to a shop with a bigger impact.
Plan D-- Left hand drill down center of bolt.
.
.
.
.
Plan X Sawall the bolt and the control arm if necessary. Replace with all new control arm and bolt
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#8
"front clip"
Well since I can't get the bolt out, I decided to just trade the car in for a convertible eclipse!
HA
The bolt finally gave way with the help of a hydraulic jack, breaker bar, and "breaker bar extender" (also known as a steel pipe).
A puddle of PB blaster to clean up under the car but I am happy. Just need the new bushing.
Well since I can't get the bolt out, I decided to just trade the car in for a convertible eclipse!
HA
The bolt finally gave way with the help of a hydraulic jack, breaker bar, and "breaker bar extender" (also known as a steel pipe).
A puddle of PB blaster to clean up under the car but I am happy. Just need the new bushing.
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