Shadowpriest

iTrader: (3)

I am going to be installing the steering rack bushings in the whiteline steering precision kit and I've lost my instructions. Are they printed online somewhere? I searched Whiteline's website and couldn't find a PDF or something similar.

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

Contact Andrew @ GTWorx, user name GTWORX.com. I believe he has a scanned copy of the directions. I did mine when I had my subframe down for the clutch install and to be honest I'm not sure if you could install this kit without dropping the subframe. If you have a lift, a friend, and a bottle or so of quality power steering fluid then dropping the subframe is really not hard at all.

CharlieGsanD

iTrader: (1)

if i remember the instructions were pretty basic, just showing how to change the bushes. nothing about how to best gain access to the rack.


id reccomend you drop the subframe, it sounds intimidating, but its pretty easy actually, if your worried, just have an extra hand around & youll be fine

Shadowpriest

iTrader: (3)

10-4. Thanks guys.

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

Yes, the directions really only tell you the proper orientation of the washers and bushings included but there is one step that this is critical to because you would think that a two washers need to be split up when they in fact need to be double stacked. Hope that makes some sense. Get hold of the guys at Gtworx as you wouldn't want the geometry of the rack and the kit to be off. Lube EVERYTHING btw

DANRR05

From want I read there are people that can pull, rebuild, and install a engine in a couple of hours, so this would be a easy install for them, Local Evo shop said about 5 hrs to the install. This is no easy install at all. Besides droping the subframe, you have to remove the rack and pinion assembly to press out the bushings. Maybe when the clutch is replaced would be the time to do. Just looking at the new bushing and the factory bushing, this is a waiste of money for no gain to minimal gain. I have replaced all my Suspession bushings and roll center correction kit myself no fun but do able with the proper tools.

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

I wouldn't say it's a waste of money at all. I would say that the labor to benefit ratio might negate the gains seen in comparison to other modifications. It's not a hard thing to do at all really as the steering rack is cake to remove from the subframe once everything is down. The factory bushings don't need to be pressed out really. A not so hard tap from a ball peen hammer did the trick with mine All in all it is really something that should be done while the subframe is down for a clutch job.

DANRR05

You must be A great mechanic. So it is a piece of cake working in your garage on the floor, car on jack stands, having to remove front brakes, shocks. Then disconnect: down pipe, A arms, frame support beams, ball joints, steering colum, swaybar, rear motor mount, power steering lines, rack and pinon, remove the sub frame out of the car ,then get the whiteline parts to fit, then put it all back together. How much time did that take you?

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

Hey calm down guy. I will admit that when I removed the subframe on jackstands when doing my transfer case with no assistance that it did take a bit of creative thinking but nothing I would list as impossible. Let me clarify: if you have a lift, the five hour quote is just about spot on. There is no reason to disconnect the a arms, the ball joints are cake same with the downpipe, steering column telescoping portion is only held in with a spring clip inside of the cabin, sway bar endlinks are 4 little bolts total, a swivel head 14mm gear wrench is your friend with the rear motor mount bolt, power steering lines are easy, the rack and pinion are held to the subframe rather simply once it's down, you may want to watch it when bringing the subframe down as it's not too heavy but the center of gravity of the piece is a bit deceiving, and the precision steering kit went in with little to no effort. Don't let seemingly big things overwhelm you as you just have to look at them in steps instead of the whole.

DANRR05

Thanks, little more clear now, few questions

1. You wrote about disconnect the steering in the cabin, and is there another disconnect that is next to the rack and pinion?
2. Did you completely remove the sub frame out from underneath the car to install the bushings?
3. Did the old bushings come out easy?
4. can the sway bar or the motor mount be assembled back on the sub frame prior to reinstalling the sub frame.

Thanks

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

1. Once the spring clip on the telescoping portion of the steering column is removed and column retracted the rack and pinion are ready to come down with the subframe as long as you have disconnected the power steering lines from top side.

2. I was told by the guys at GTWorx that you could get around having to drop the subframe completely but I'm not really sure that this would be worth the time it might save. Again I had mine out for a clutch install as I see the removal of the subframe as a necessary step for comfort in what is already a cramped job.

3. I did my clutch at 108k miles so if the bushings would have been hard to remove I believe I would have been a good candidate for such a situation. Alas, they did not. I first attempted hammering them out with a ball peen hammer because the whole assembly just looked too awkward to fit under a press. They really came out quite easily. The larger of the bushings included in the kit that insulates the rack itself from the subframe is a bit difficult to keep in place while bolting the rack back to the subframe due to all of the lube and how thin its walls are but it's nothing too bad.

4. I would not remove the motor mount from the subframe. I'm tired but if I remember correctly the sway bar is only detached at the endlink mount bolts to move it out of the way of something else. Either way it comes down with the subframe assembly itself.

DANRR05

FYI, coming from someone that actually installed this kit. There are 2 variation of this kit, I found out the hard way. There is one large bushing that varies in these kits. The best one is similar desighn as OEM just made out of polyurethane, easily remove and replace. The bad type is what I bought and installed. Very difficult to install, obviously because it looks nothing like the OEM, but I was determined to make it fit. See pictures. Hope you learn from my expierence.

[IMG]http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r317/dhg1337/evo%20pictures/DSC00084.jpg[/IMG]













http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00082.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00084.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00085.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00086.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00090.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00091.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00093.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00095.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00096.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00097.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00099.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00100.jpg

DANRR05

Bottom line, do not buy the kit KCA 390 with the D shaped bushing, this is incorrect packaging per Whiteline customer tech/relations.

Johnboy1065

iTrader: (6)

mine didnt include the right kind of buschings for the brace bar. mine had little metal buschings inside of it and there was NO WAY that could've slid onto the brace bar.

JRB_EVO

iTrader: (6)

Bringing this topic back from the dead.

Has anyone else installed these bushings? If so can you provide some honest feedback, are they worth the hassle of dropping the whole sub-frame and steering rack?

Thanks for sharing your feedback!