Ive tried searching, but the results come out too broad. It seems like this has been answered before so if someone can find the thread, please post it

My dad changed out my tires when i was out of the country. He put on Sumitomo HTR-Z tires. My god, they are HORRIBLE compared to the Advans I had. When going around 70-80 MPH on the highway and I need to avoid an object in the road, the Crisp turns dont happen anymore, its very unstable and the car tends to lean a LOT. I understand that is because the sidewalls on the advans were a LOT more stiff than the Sumitomos, but what can I set my alighment to in order to get the most performance out of these tires? Tie ware is not THAT much of an issue.

This is my assumption, help me out:
FRONT
Camber: Since the bolts only allow Regular or MAX Negative, Id set it to the MAX Negative (Around -2*)
Caster: I have no idea where to even start guessing where I should keep this, advice on this would help.
Toe: Zero out as much as possible

Rear
Camber: -1*
Caster: NO IDEA?
Toe: Zero

 

Caster isn't adjustable, so don't worry about it. A little bit of toe out in the front will make it bite better on turn in, but at the cost of wearing the inner shoulder of the tire.

After shredding two sets of tires in 18 months, I went with the HTR-ZIIIs. A-046s they're not, but they're also 1/3 the price.

 

I run Zero toe front and back

I think 1.7 -Camber in the front
Like 1.4 -Camber in the rear

 

So caster is not adjustable at all?

 

Also, When I get my alignment specs, it gives me

Toe for the left
Toe for the right
Total toe

Am i looking for ALL 3 of these to be close to zero, or just the total toe to be close to zero?

 

Ten years ago these tires were top of the line Dunlop D40M2's - the best you could buy back when. Have fun wearing them out, these tires like to last. Also, be careful on the snow, you will discover the car likes to swap ends on a slick surface.

As for the toe, be interested in total toe. With the machines they have now they measure each side separately - kinda goofy.

 

I'm personally running 17x9 +32, 17x8.5 +35, stock caster all around, -3.0 in the front, and -2.4 in the rear, with -0.05 degrees toe in the rear. Everything goes into play when you tune suspension.. wheel size, wheel width, tire size, caster, height, toe, and of course camber. It's really hard to say just how doing one thing will make your suspension run well. BTW.. I drive a Subaru, but tuning Evo suspension is very similar.. IE you mainly want neutral to over steer.. at least with my driving style. I clock 1'28.xx" at Streets of Willow with 245/40/17 RT615's, stock drivetrain, and as a WRX, I consistently run faster than STi's, Evo's, M3's etc.. (mildly modified.. not full race lol).. but different suspension setups will work differently for different driving styles. going from the Advans to a higher tread wear all season will deffinently change the handling characteristics of the car because the compound of the tire is just less grippy.. when you tune your suspension, just make sure you take everything into consideration. I personally recommend Advan Neova's, Falken RT615's, RE01's, or even the Federal 595rs for daily. They're a little more on the high end street performance tires, and while they're night and day away from an R compound, you'll deffinently like those a lot more than the all seasons you're probably on.

 

I got these #'s on AMS's website..

Alignment Settings

Beginner to intermediate driver
> Front Toe – zero
> Front Camber -2.0 deg (max neg camber on stock offset bolts)
> Rear Toe – 1/16” in
> Rear Camber -1.25 deg

Experienced driver
> Front Toe – 1/16” to 1/8” toe out
> Front Camber – 2 deg (more neg front toe makes the front more darty but improves turn-in & cornering characteristics of the car)
> Rear Toe - Zero to 1/32” toe out
> Rear Camber -1.5 deg (zero toe or slight toe out lets the rear of the car move around a little more but improves mid-corner and especially corner exit handling characteristics of the EVO. This will increase the tendency of the car to oversteer, recommended for experienced drivers.)

 

These settings from AMS - are they assuming standard UHP rubbers or R-compounds?

 

get a little change in caster by adjusting the cradle. but it isn't really needed.

 

Those AMS numbers are for street use only or for track cars? Those camber numbers are a bit low for track use.