Speed costs money, as I'm quickly learning - need a new clutch, new tires, and wouldn't you know it? New pads. 
How much should I expect to pay in order to have my pads replaced & the brake system flushed by the dealer?
I've got 4mm left F/R according to my latest checkup (17K miles); maybe I drive more aggressively than I admit but I've never taken her to a racetrack of any sort.
This car is a *LOT* more car than I am driver so I have no desire to do any upgrading of any sort for the pads.

How much should I expect to pay in order to have my pads replaced & the brake system flushed by the dealer?
I've got 4mm left F/R according to my latest checkup (17K miles); maybe I drive more aggressively than I admit but I've never taken her to a racetrack of any sort.
This car is a *LOT* more car than I am driver so I have no desire to do any upgrading of any sort for the pads.
I'd recommend doing the pads yourself as it's extremely easy. Need a hammer, a nail, some high temp caliper grease and that's about it. My stock pads only lasted 22k miles pure street driving by the way
For dealer cost, I bet they'd charge you 1.5-2 hours labor time, so $80-$100 per hour. You could save yourself up to $200 if you do it yourself, which pays for the front pads at least.
For bleeding the brakes, easiest (though debateable if best) method is get get the Motive power bleeder.
For dealer cost, I bet they'd charge you 1.5-2 hours labor time, so $80-$100 per hour. You could save yourself up to $200 if you do it yourself, which pays for the front pads at least.For bleeding the brakes, easiest (though debateable if best) method is get get the Motive power bleeder.
Newbie
Well, I just replaced my pads all around this week for the first time and I can tell you this:
My Mitsu dealer wanted $256 for the front pads alone.
I paid $179 shipped for all 4 corners Hawk HPS from Lancershop.com. I don't notice much difference in braking on the car, better or worse, but my wallet damn sure felt the difference.
I'm not saying you need to get Hawk's, but I'd definatly entertain the idea of not getting OEM unless you got money coming out of your ears.
My Mitsu dealer wanted $256 for the front pads alone.
I paid $179 shipped for all 4 corners Hawk HPS from Lancershop.com. I don't notice much difference in braking on the car, better or worse, but my wallet damn sure felt the difference.
I'm not saying you need to get Hawk's, but I'd definatly entertain the idea of not getting OEM unless you got money coming out of your ears.
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my evo gets nothing but oem. even my galant sigma gets an oem pads and shims.
Evolved Member
...but the best for you.
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Originally Posted by sblvro
my evo gets nothing but oem. even my galant sigma gets an oem pads and shims.
Evolving Member
My oem pads were more aggressive than my Hawk hps. I prefer the oem's but the price on the Hawks. +1 for learning how to do the brakes yourself.
Evolved Member
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you base this on what? initial feel? if thats so thats natural of OEM to do that while aftermarket sacrifice initial bite for reduced brake fade etc. Originally Posted by groove304
My oem pads were more aggressive than my Hawk hps. I prefer the oem's but the price on the Hawks. +1 for learning how to do the brakes yourself.
maybe your rotors are wearing out quicker?
Evolved Member
Stock pads, which are Brembo's aren't cheap! I'm pretty sure you're looking at $350 and up just for your fronts.
I changed my fronts to Endless Nuova and they're pretty good. I think the stock has more bit into it but I'm using my car for DD so it's ok.
If you're changing your rear's, becareful with which pads you go for. Some of the aftermarket pads are slightly smaller so they'll make a clicking sound after you park your for awhile.
I changed my fronts to Endless Nuova and they're pretty good. I think the stock has more bit into it but I'm using my car for DD so it's ok.
If you're changing your rear's, becareful with which pads you go for. Some of the aftermarket pads are slightly smaller so they'll make a clicking sound after you park your for awhile.
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Quote:
maybe your rotors are wearing out quicker?
In most cases Hawk HPS are more aggressive than stock - but no ton EVO's or STi'sOriginally Posted by mifesto
you base this on what? initial feel? if thats so thats natural of OEM to do that while aftermarket sacrifice initial bite for reduced brake fade etc. maybe your rotors are wearing out quicker?
DS2500's are a better starting point. They are a bit more aggressive than OEM - plus have higher heat range. Moderate dust/noise - half the cost of OEM
Evolving Member
I just got a quote from the dealer of 500.00 for the rear only. Called tire rack and ordered pads for 80.00 with tax. I am going to try the Hawk ceramic brakes to see how they work. It is a DD and i do not want to have the increased squeaking according to the tire rack rep. I will post how i like them once installed.
Evolved Member
Quote:
DS2500's are a better starting point. They are a bit more aggressive than OEM - plus have higher heat range. Moderate dust/noise - half the cost of OEM
The DS2500 are better in every respect to the oem pads BUT the dusting. Better get ready to clean your wheels twice as much.Originally Posted by EVOBrakes
In most cases Hawk HPS are more aggressive than stock - but no ton EVO's or STi'sDS2500's are a better starting point. They are a bit more aggressive than OEM - plus have higher heat range. Moderate dust/noise - half the cost of OEM
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Yeah, I've heard good thing about the Ferodo DS2500 and more than one person has said that the Hawk HPS don't work as well as OEM.Originally Posted by BBS
The DS2500 are better in every respect to the oem pads BUT the dusting. Better get ready to clean your wheels twice as much.
I can live with brake dust; it's just brake dust.
As long as the performance with respect to stopping power, fade resistance, longevity, brake feel, and rotor wear is at least as good as OEM, I'm sold.
Are there any objective test results out there (i.e. someone measure OEM stopping distance VS DS2500 stopping distance)?
Thanks!

