Does anyone have any experience changing out an outer tie rod? I see it's pretty straight forward no big deal, just wondering on torque specs and thread count on the rod. Can't seem to find any specs after searching

Thanks

 

anyone?

 

Youll need to get it allingned. You can count the number of threads or turns coming off and get it close threading the new one on. But you toe is going to likely be out so get it on a rack ASAP

 

^+1
I like to use a little anti-seize on the threads it makes it a lot easier next time you break them loose, torque specs = pretty fricken tight but don't go nuts, most people won't have the tools to torque them anyway you would need a crows foot and a calculator.

 

That's ironic you asked about this because I'm about to replace my tie rod ends with the whiteline roll center correction kit.

You need a tie rod end separator to loosen it up (aka a pickle fork), I'll check to torque values....

 

A pickle fork shouldn't be used on any joint in the evo. They will most likely damage the boots.

What you need is this:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN

Forgot to add they Autozone sells a couple different sizes and with a little modification they can do every joint on an evo. Just be sure to leave the nut covering the threads so they don't get damaged.

 

You can use the pickle fork simply to loosen it up, and then use another tool to press it out. I have a press at home so I usually just use that.

That pitman arm puller doesn't seem to have any adjustability though...how do you go about doing the control arm joint which is bigger, to the tie rod end which is smaller? Have you personally used this tool on almost every joint of the car? From the looks of things I think this kit would be better, no?

http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...nt/KD41690.htm

But thank you VERY much for the link to the website. They have some good hand tools for the suspension that I'd like to get a hold of!

 

I'm finishing up with the Whiteline install too. The The control arm ball joint SEEMS like it needs more grease but it went on without a fight because I used the press at the shop. Now I'm working on removing the tie rod ends. The bolt that connects to the suspension by the rotor was easy. I just loostened the nut to the top of the threads, hammered it with a hard rubber mallett first, then a couple bangs witha hammer popped it right out.

The tie rod end is another story. I can't for the life of me get the Jam Nut loose. My car is on jack stands and I just have regular basic tools. I've reinstalled the control arm and anti-sway bar just to firm up the whole front suspension assembly, hoping to get more leverage on the jam nut, but no dice yet. There is so much movement that it is hard to brace it. Any constructive advice would be appreciated...

 

Yea...that top nut is only 19 ft-lbs. What did you use to loosen the front tie rod end and remove the lower ball joint? I have only the pickle fork, and then a 20-ton shop press. I need to expand my tool repatoire...

 

Forget the pickles just pop the area of the knuckle where the end connects to it with a hammer after loosening the nut on top it will fall right down. The jam nuts can be a ***** they are both right hand threads it just takes some *** to move them, 2 wrenches side by side should do the trick be careful not to put twisting force on the tie-rod end itself.

 

Thanks for the advice. Hey, remember the ole' Vishnu, Dynoflash, and Buschur wars? We've been around here pretty long and have seen the changing of the gaurd more than once. Glad those days are over.

 

Wow this thread has answered all my questions! Thanks all for the replies everyone

 

I have 2 of those pullers that can do the whole evo, they have been modified on my bench grinder for clearance. I understand a press is nice and have one myself, but it requires removal of the hub from the car.

Someone mentioned the trick of "waking up" the ball joint with a hammer but I prefer not to do that.

Have fun guys.

 

I don't like hammering stuff either when there is a better way to do it. I was going to try and use the pickle fork to wedge in if I could--but was still looking for options. Thanks to you, I went ahead and just bought that kit that I linked to. The press I was going to use for the rear bushings, and just use this kit for the tie rods and ball joints.

Thanks again for the link...I went to northern tools and harbor freight locally but they didn't have anything worth a damn there.

 

On tie rod ends I've always used a standard 2-jaw gear puller.

The last time I looked under the jam nut on the passenger side tie rod was loose. I could spin it with my fingers. So, I snugged it with two wrenches and it still was loose! I could still spin it with my fingers! So I really laided on it to make sure it was going to stay tight.

As for counting threads, forget it. I've tried that and it doesn't get you even close - well maybe close enough for the drive to the alignment shop.