stiff brake pedal?
i've searched for an hour now and didn't find anything.
this happened a couple of times and i hope someone con help.
this morning i pulled out and went down the hill by my house,
needless to say when i got to the stop sign at the bottom the
brake pedal was hard and i didnt stop! then the brakes were fine
all the way to work. please give your advice. and if you dont know
dont comment please. kinda tired of seeing guys comment on
things they have no clue about.
this happened a couple of times and i hope someone con help.
this morning i pulled out and went down the hill by my house,
needless to say when i got to the stop sign at the bottom the
brake pedal was hard and i didnt stop! then the brakes were fine
all the way to work. please give your advice. and if you dont know
dont comment please. kinda tired of seeing guys comment on
things they have no clue about.
sounds like maybe air in the brake lines?...possibly need to bleed the brakelines to get any air bubbles out...or maybe ur clutch/brake master cylinder is going out...but probably not since the brakes were working fine after the first failure
Last edited by kilgoja; Dec 12, 2007 at 11:37 AM.
i let the car warm up then when i pulled out and went down the hill
the pedal was hard. and then fine after that.
i have no reason for air to be in the lines .
does anyone think its because i put 272 cams in the car
and now i have less vaccum?
the pedal was hard. and then fine after that.
i have no reason for air to be in the lines .
does anyone think its because i put 272 cams in the car
and now i have less vaccum?
the brake system doesn't warm up when you idle your motor. air gets into the lines over time naturally. it's not the cams. I'm thinking it's cold pads which are not up to temp and/or air in the lines.
A high and hard brake pedal usually means that your brake booster is not working properly. I'd check the vacuum line to the booster for proper installation, leaks, etc. If the pedal feels normal, and the car is just not slowing down, it is something else. Are you using aftermarket pads just need to be warmed up before they grip?
air in the lines is either mushy or hitting the floor. A hard pedal, like tsi90awd said is usually a booster. There's an easy test in the service manual. Shut the car completely off and pump the brake pedal until it's hard. Turn the car on and the pressure should release. Something like that.
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Yep. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times. You will release the vacuum in the booster. The pedal should feel hard and high off the floor. Turn the engine on and pump the pedal again. If it still feels high and hard, your booster isnt working correctly. If it feels softer and lower, the booster is ok at that moment. At least this show you what the pedal feels like when the booster isn't working correctly.
I would say that it IS the cams. I always thought my brakes needed a LOT of effort on track in that it was all but impossible for me to rev match (heel toe) due to the amount of pressure that I was forced to put on the brake made it impossible to slide my foot to the edge to reach the gas with even a toe.
I then noticed a post in the competition, track folder on brake booster fade and thought it sounded like what I had to deal with most all the time. Long story short I was living with nearly unassisted brakes and tracking with them. The upside was that I had developed some of the strongest ankles in north america.
I then noticed a post in the competition, track folder on brake booster fade and thought it sounded like what I had to deal with most all the time. Long story short I was living with nearly unassisted brakes and tracking with them. The upside was that I had developed some of the strongest ankles in north america.
A high and hard brake pedal usually means that your brake booster is not working properly. I'd check the vacuum line to the booster for proper installation, leaks, etc. If the pedal feels normal, and the car is just not slowing down, it is something else. Are you using aftermarket pads just need to be warmed up before they grip?
cams with extreme overlap will have a harder time evacuating your brake booster as you make less vacuum at lower rpms. but it might be that your booster is brokes
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