Good luck finding the right size you must push on the very outside edge of the ball-joint not the center. I call those hammers but it don't make it right.

 

It fit actually...I just needed to press the ball joint up just a smidge more. Those snap ring pliers helped out. I also bought the c-clamp ball joint installer/extractor to make the other side a little easier. I got it in with the separator tool, but again, it wasn't too pretty.

I'll do a "how to" on the other side, it shouldn't take more than an hour or so since I now have all the proper tools and did the dry run on this side.

 

^^Like you said, you realy need to press those ball joints in all the way. Good luck.

 

I really think you'll save time if you take the lower arm off and do it on the bench.

 

Theoretically. Unfortunately Mitsu overtorqued the lower arms so tight that even at 150 psi with the gun--neither of the inner bolts would come loose, that's after shooting it up with PBlaster too.

That was my intended plan, until all this happened. So I went with the hub removal method instead. Pretty easy either way, assuming you can get the bolts off without issue (and you have the right tools).

 

^^^ A large pry bar and solid socket wrench loosened them up with ease.

 

Wanna give me your secret technique then for future reference?!

Ironically I JUST got done with the ball joint on the driver's side...so now the front is done. Roll center correction kit has officially been installed. The only things I had a problem with this time was when I pressed out the joint, not only did the joint come out, but somehow the lip on the bottom of the arm came off with the joint! I mean the **** just tore right off! Since it doesn't actually hold anything though, I guess it's not a big deal. But damn...

When I pressed the joint back in, I noticed it started going in sorta ****-eyed about halfway through, but I couldn't do anything at that point but continue to press it in...ended up with a little more aluminum shavings that I'd had liked but the joint is tight and the snap ring is secure.

Now all I have to do is the rear bump steer correction kit, and then I can go get her aligned.

 

Looking forward to installation instructions. I'm debating whether or not it would just be easier to have the kit installed at a shop.

 

The roll center kit isn't too bad of an install...the tie rod ends will take about 10 minutes to do, the ball joints a bit longer depending on your experience level and the tools in your repotoire.

Just make sure you have an adjustable pitman arm puller/ball joint separator for the tie rods. I bought a kit, but only used on piece of it. I used that same piece to install one of the ball joints even--though I wouldn't recommend it if you can get the arm off and simply have a shop (or you) press it in with a shop press.

Pep boys had a 20-ton locally for $150....about the same thing that labor would cost if you went to a shop I suppose. Worth it in my opinion.

 

My goal is to get the arms off and have a shop press the parts in.

 

Let me know what shop you are going with to use their press. I plan on doing this install most likely in the spring. Also, what place do you plan on getting the alignment done? Figured I will ask since you live in Illinois like me.

 

I live in Central IL. If you can get the arms off yourself, take it to just about any auto shop with a press and it should be a 10-15 minute job for them to swap the bushings. I'll probably go to a local place. I'll post what I end up doing and how it worked out.

 

^^ bushings or ball joints?

 

OK, got me there. I'm also having the rear bump steeer kit put in and I think of that kit as a bushing set. My roll center kit hasn't arrived yet.

 

I just picked up my Whiteline Roll Center kit for $154.99 shipped! This is a great deal and I got them in 2 days from ordering.

I am in no way affiliated with this company, but just wanted to share my experience with them.

http://www.maperformance.com/store/p...roductid=18450