^^ Alright--I'll try that.

Thanks for putting up with this thread fellas.

Right now I've got the front mounts tightened down to the stop. I figured having the proper torque is better than not being able to use the dust caps. I'll probably just drill a small hole in the dust caps to accomodate the piston rod. Can someone just confirm with me if theirs looks this way or not?

Photos of the front:



Now for the rear, I need 2 things confirmed; 1--which assembly photo is correct, and 2--does the torque listing of 18lbs need to be applied to the bottom nut or the top nut?

Photos:

Assembly 1:


Assembly 2:


Thanks guys. I appreciate it. Although it's a simple job--I keep second guessing myself because of the vague assembly instructions and the whole piston spinning thing.

 

Anyone?

 

No2. Robi used the "OEM" washer instead of the KW one because we couldn't find them in the box. I've been racing for 2 years on them with no problems. So use either but not both.

 

Cool...so that is just a washer and not for support underneathe the top mount. Good.

Now all I need confirmed is whether or not the front mounts are proper and whether or not the 18lbs of torque in the rear is required for the first (fixing nut) or the second (locking nut).

I would assume it's for the fixing nut--but doing so would make me have to thread completely down which leaves a ****load of thread available at the top, contorts the springs, compresses the helper springs to their full capacity, and shortens the overall length of the assembly pretty drastically. So the guys that run these coilovers, if you can just take a look at your rear setup for a comparison--that would be appreciated.

 

With like 60% of the people on here running these, and even more vendors selling them, I'd I have some of you would be more willing to reply to this thread.

Can someone help a brotha out or what? You wouldn't want me to make a thread a couple of months down the line talking about another wrecked EVO would you!?

 

Nevermind. I just torqued down the nuts to the best of my ability and will try and use the torque wrench while they're on the car since I refuse to use an impact and the strap wrench doesn't work.

 

The helper springs should always be fully compressed when the weight of the car is on them. Not sure why exactly, but that's the way Rob explained it to me.

 

1. Front strut OEM torque specs:
a. Top center nut: 45 +/- 7 ftlbs
b. Top mounting nuts: 33 +/- 3 ftlbs
c. Lower mounting bolts: 123 +/- 7 ftlbs

2. Rear strut OEM torque specs:
a. Top center nut: 19 +/- 3 ftlbs
b. Top mounting nuts: 33 +/- 3 ftlbs
c. Lower mounting bolts: 65 +/- ftlbs

 

Yea...I contacted KW directly, and they said that the helper spring will probably end up compressing fully in the rear just from the typical assembly (depending on ride height settings) and that it was fine.

They said to make sure to use their top nut torque settings...which are 26 ftlbs front and 18 ftlbs rear, and then the OEM specs for mounting.

And thanks to Edmundo for posting the OEM spec torque ratings (Though I already knew those--I have an OEM spec manual).

 

That's just craziness. There are 75k evom members. By 'popular' people mean there there are _maybe_ 25 sets running around members cars.

We would like to answer your questions, but the vast majority of us have never installed a set of KWs _and_ you asked your question during the holidays when most of us are checking email and forums infrequently.

d

 

http://e30m3performance.com/tech_art...ings/index.htm

d

 

I was saying that in jest. You didn't see the little smiley guy face thing?

 

nope. oops. :-p

d

 

OOOOOKkkkaay. So I have some updates for those that care.

In regards to the assembly photos that I showed a couple of posts back for the rear shock--ASSEMBLY 1 IS THE CORRECT SETUP. Not assembly two as one of you said. That silver disc is a support for the mount. Without it the rod will continue to rise up as the car's weight is placed on the spring. Don't ask me how I know that.

The front shocks...I used my self made tool to hand tighten the nut to it's stop, but that tool isn't strong enough or shaped correctly enough to apply the 26lbs of torque without deforming the rod's end. So I installed everything on the car, and tried to use a wrench on it with the weight of the vehicle on the coilovers. The wrench still turned the rod.

...


So I used an impact for about half a second. The rod still turns there as well mind you, but fack man...I searched all over town for those sockets that fit the double-d end of the rod, and ALL OF THEM were for domestics and were too small for these KW's.

I guess if a few of the well named shops on this forum do it, than it must be okay!

In any case--thanks for the input guys.

 

Took a cruise around the block a couple times, and found that I've got a little clunking noise coming from the rear when I go over bumps. I made sure the top hats were tight (though I think I'll go back and double tighten them).

The mounting bolts for sure are tight at the top (full hand tight is about 30lbs of torque); and the lower bolt is tight as well--I used an impact wrench. I slid underneathe the car and nothing seems to be touching. I wonder if it could be the springs moving around or possibly hitting the shock itself?

Most threads about this are about Megan's or JIC's, not KW's. So there's got to be something I did wrong or need to do better...does anyone care to share what I should look at first?