I'm putting these coilovers together with the stock top-hats, and noticed a couple of things that I have questions on.

For the fronts, I noticed that the top nut is recessed down to the point where I'd have to use either a gear ratchet or a deep socket--not a problem because I have both. However I cannot figure out how to keep the center rod from moving, and it doesn't have an allen key hole to hold it in place since the rebound adjustment is there.

I've been told by a shop that they just zap it with an impact--but I've always heard that was bad because you can spin the rod. It also specifically says not to do this in the owner's manual. I know a lot of people on here run the KWV3's...how did you guys install the top hats?

For the rear, I originally thought that the washer that came with the KW's was supposed to stay where it's at, and I was just supposed to tighten down the two top nuts on top of the factory washer until the top mount reached the "support" washer provided by KW. From there I noticed that with the helper spring on the top, that the top hat sits sorta crooked. So I reversed the springs with the swift spring on the top and the helper spring at the base. I also think that the washer that came with the KW's was supposed to be used as the washer for the top nuts, so I removed it from under the base and used it on top--not using the stock washers at all.

So that's it, question one--can I use the impact or is there another solution? Question 2--does it matter where the helper spring is (top or bottom)?

 

Use a strap wrench!!! Makes life easier and helps keep the shaft from spinning.

Officially, you're not supposed to use an impact......but a cordless electric is fine. Just be careful and once sound of the impact changes tone, quit it.


- Andrew

 

Crap. I have a craftsman 150psi compressor with a 90 psi gun. My regulator can get down to the necessary 18lbs for the rear and the 29lbs for the front...I just don't want to do that and take a chance of ruining the internals.

I'll look around for those rubber grip wrenches or the strap wrench.

But in regards to the original questions, helper spring placement is irrelevant, right?

Also, that washer that comes with the rear struts, that is meant to go just above the top hat and under the locking nuts, right? Because I still have the stock washer for that....

 

Ok...

So the loop wrench didn't do a damn bit of good. It doens't grip the inner rod any better than my hand did.

The rear coilover I don't think will pose a problem anyway since there's two nuts, one to tighten down (where it won't give any torque till you get to the unthreaded / wider part of the shaft) and I'm pretty sure I'm not supposed to thread the nut that far--it compresses the helper spring completely which I know isn't proper. So I figure it's just the top locking nut that is supposed to have the 18lbs of torque. No problem since it's right there on top. I just don't know how far to thread the first nut down.

The front, though assembled I still have no clue as to how I'm going to tighten it down without using the impact. There has to be some tool--a hollow rod with a cutout that fits the inner rod's shape?! Hell I could probably go to a metal guy to make one I suppose if one doesn't exist...what do you guys think?

Anyway...here's how things look as of right now...


Front strut from the top


Angled a bit to see the rod tip and recessed nut


Did I thread this down enough?

\
Overall installation...look about right?

Aside from tightening down, that's pretty much it. I've already adjusted a trial bump/rebound setup, and adjusted the ride height to about where I think it should be relative to my current set, with spring settling taken into consideration.

 

What about something like this?

I found that tool on the net, but just not sure if it's going to fit this top nut.

 

You don't turn the air down to 18 psi, that is not the same as ft/lb torque measurements.

On my KWs I used my impact at full strength. Give it a few real quick jabs to get it tight, then you are down.

Real, real easy.

Don't hold down the trigger, it will spin the rod, just quick jabs till it is tight, then one or two more quick jabs to ensure all is snug.

 

And we're talking just for the front right? Because the rear has the two nuts and I can just use a couple of open ends for that....?

How'd everything look in the photos?

 

The photos look pretty good. The orientation of the helper springs don't matter, they can be on the top of the bottom. Everyone I know with KW V3 has used an impact gun sparingly to tightenin the top nut on the front struts with no issues after multiple disassembly and installs. Alternatively you could use rubber vice grips to hold the shaft. The rears look good, use both nuts to counter lock each other.

 

I am talking about the top nut that holds the top-hat on.

My KWs are on a suby, so there may be some differences.

 

A bit off-topic, but was there any part on the KWs that inserted into the rear OEM top-hat to accept what I assume to be 60mm springs?

The reason I ask is I'd like to revert to OEM top hats on my car for the extra suspension travel, and I'm not sure if they'll fit 60mm springs without some sort of extra retainer.

 

HAHAHAHHA *****es! I made my own damn tool!

I took an L-shaped 10mm hex key, and used my grinder to cut into the bottom of it. Luckily the grinder's blade is about the same width as the top of the rod.

I still need to de-burr it, but it works and I got both top nuts on there with no issues. I wasn't able to use a torque wrench, and I'm pretty sure it's not at 26ft/lbs -- as I wouldn't be able to generate that sort of torque without threading the screw complelety to the stop...but if I do that the piston rod won't fit in the top (won't be able get the cap back on).

I don't need to thread completely down to where the threading stops and the piston rod get's wider, correct? That's my main concern right now is making sure I've threaded both the front and rear top hats to where they need to be. The KW assembly directions didn't really specify--only that they need to be 26 ft-lbs / 18 ft-lbs front to rear.

I can still press down the top mount a little ways to the stop on the front coilovers, I can't do that on the rear--they're pretty solid. Should I tighten down the front a little more even though it will eliminate me from being able to use the center dust caps? I'd like to be able to use those since it protects the greased bearing....

Check it out:

 

Just an FYI for future reference. I recently learned how to tighten the KWv3s if you have camber plates on. You take a 8mm wrench to the rod and 17mm wrench to the top nut.

 

My springs are 60mm, but the KWs come with 60mm spring perches that work with the stock top hats. When it comes to suspension bits, everything has to be a tight fit as I've recently learned the hard way. $

 

Hmmm...I tried using an 8mm on the rod and it didn't hold...and I believe the top-nut is 19mm (for the front anyway).

Did you get different hardware to use with your camber plates?

And if you don't mind me asking, what happened with your suspension where you learned "the hard way"?

 

When installing struts in other cars I found that the top nut can be easily tightened with a torque wrench after lowering the jack without using any other tool. The rod will not spin.