Hey everyone 👋
My name’s Chris. Long-time lurker, finally made an account after learning a ton from reading threads here.

I’m working on a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally (4G94, 5-speed) with ~199k miles. It’s a family car that was passed down to me, and I’ve been slowly going through it front to back to bring it back to life and eventually turbo it down the road.

So far I’ve done:

• Full timing service (belt, pump, idler, tensioner)
  
• Intake manifold deep clean + closed-loop catch can
  
• Short ram intake (temporary)
  
• 4-2-1 header + Magnaflow cat-back
  
• MAF plate mod using senate6268’s guide (huge improvement)
  
• EvoScan + logging setup
  
• Clutch + flywheel
  
• Suspension/brakes refresh
  
• Lots of wiring cleanup (more than I ever wanted &#128517
  

While digging into the wiring I’ve uncovered some… interesting choices from previous owners, so I’ve got a few technical questions I’ll be posting in the proper sections soon.

Just wanted to say hey, introduce the project, and thank everyone here — this forum has already saved me a ton of time and headaches.

Looking forward to learning more and contributing where I can.

— Chris

 

Welcome! Cool to see someone breathing life back into an OZ Rally. They aren't overly popular on this forum but people will chime in on questions if they can!

 

So for the past few days i have been gathering and prepping this car for a turbo not just a slap on have fun i'm making sure i hit every corner to make sure this car will safely and happily handle low boost the car just hit 200,000 Miles and sounds better then when i first got it oddly lol


But my big Roadblock / issue is this





So this is where it hit my turbo road block hahahaah as my car uses the two part oil pan segment a "lower steal Stamped one #8" and a Damn "Upper Aluminum one #6" and i know when it comes to turbo the oil return MUST be above the oil and at least high enough to not allow oil back up the line so that means it HAS TO GO INTO THE UPPER #6 and this is where i stopped this is legit the last thing before i put on the turbo i have everything manifold, turbo, intercooler pipes, oil feed lines, cooling lines for the turbo even a billet custom actuator set to 4.41 psi to start bigger injectors all of it i am ready like i have it all ready but the last thing stopping me is this part i dont have a spare and no "junk yard" has any for me to go scoop up i looked into maybe other cars pans but no luck I want to turbo im ready to lol but what is scaring me is the fact that i only have one upper oil pan part and i either have to no weld bung it with a bulk head fitting or hope to god someone can weld aluminum 100% and it wont leak or fail hahahaha

i can order a upper pan from someone on ebay but "COUGH" stubs toe crys a little over $300 because i have to pay a 10% inport tax fee is wonderful lol it basically has stopped me dead in my tracks




dumb enough thats exactly how my pan looks and it looks like i might have no choice lol so before i go a pull the trigger and buy a used pan from lietuva, lithuania that maybe just maybe someone will have a idea or be able to help me lol

If this helps cars engine is 4G94

Transmission is 5-SPEED F5M42

Car Model 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Oz Rally 2.0L 5-speed manual

 

Okay well i got it hahahahahahahahahahahahahahah so if anyone had one to sell well im sorry ima little jumpy and hate waiting especially with something i consider a "rare" part Anyways it showed up from all the way from Latvia and lemme just say yall over by the balltic sea how the hell do you combat rust so dang well lol this pan is aluminum so yeah less "Rust eat" but it still can "rust" and oxidize and such just so crazy to sit and stare at the before and after pictures lol i did some damn much and can even do more little fine tune "crack head" spot clean so now since i got this spare pan to turn into a turbo pan i wanted to share my idea and see if anyone likes it or thinks other spot is better so here we go






















Okay so this is where it gets weird lol so the below pics is a part on the pan that mine right now on my car dosent have this like little spot and further digging it looks like a oil return spot used in 4G63 DSM/Evo or other variants of the 4g94 engine block


Here you can see a weld in bung flush fit in it



Might look at a better one with more length for weld to bite to



This is inside right behind where it would enter the pan it seems Factory added Boss channels and baffles as well i carbine bit the inside yes softly and polished it with a 2500 sand paper grit i was checking for any cracks flaws and just to remove any oil / contam / ruff casting to make sure the weld is 100% as close as possible to solid lol once welded in i'll post a pic of it all set up right now i still need the steal stamp lower part and bolts for that lower part so i can make this a quick ish lol swap on my car if i ever need to go non turbo to turbo i can switch pans and not basically be dead in the water the only issue with the "quick swap" is the fact the upper part uses RTV and has no gasket lol i could make my own at this point and trial and error but when i look at the service manual hahaha um 80 ± 26 in-lb and 4 trans bolts at 17 ± 2 ft-lb it seems its a mix of rtv "glue" and torque so im okay staying with one rtv spot on the pan hahahahah

i also plan once its all said and ready to send the official pan off to a custom oil pan company to make a "all in one" or a upgrade of it as this FRICKEN SUCKED and i honestly wouldn't want to wish a "I hope your upper oil pan on your 4g94 fails" curse on anyone as holly cow if i messed up the oem on the car right now car would be trashed no lies so hopefully they can make a sick all in one for use 4g94 owners hahaha

But if anyone thinks i shouldn't put the return in that spot let me know! (Soon hopefully)
as i am def setting this up all the way

i do plan to slap a Haltech 1500 (Still need to get it) ecu into the car and will go down the rabbit hole on how to retain the stock wire loom so also stay tuned but i feel the stock ecu is finally hitting a wall on logging and either as past post shown i have to hack the stock wire loom and ecu or use some type of third party stuff so i say NO MORE Thanks all for stopping by and giving this a read!