[QUOTE=KZEVO;5543700is there a way to check if the pistons are all working right. i don't have anyone that can sit in the car and press the pedal for me to see if all 4pistons work.

thanks[/QUOTE]

A simple way to check for stuck pistons is to cruise down the highway for a few miles and then coast to a stop without using the brakes. Get out and check for a hot wheel. Be careful, if a brake is dragging the wheel could be very hot.

 

Don't know the consensus, but my boots have been cracked since last year. The important part is thorough inspection before and every track event looking for leaks, and do rebuild (ie, replace the piston seals) if you find anything suspicious.

I usually rebuild mine every ~3 years (but I only got out 3-4 times a year) even when there are no signs of issues. When I was using wilwoods on my other car, I just replaced the entire caliper (only $110 each) instead of rebuilding. If I did ~10 events/year, I would probably rebuild them each year.

Again, consistent thorough inspections is probably the key here.

 

Great point. I look over everything each time I change out or rotate tires before-during-and at the track! No signs of leaks of anykind for me. Just cracking dust boots.

 

I' ve had cracked dust boots for a few years now, I think mine cracked on the very first track day, there have been many more since then.

 

Pulled my pads out this weekend and the calipers off as well to put on new rotors. Check out the pads below. I already had an order in for new seals and dustboots from Girodisc. I'm thinking it's a MUST now instead of just early maintenance.

 

Got all the seals out now for the fronts. It's really not too bad. Following a good writeup here:

http://club4g.org/board/suspension/9...breakdown.html

Putting things back together now. The pistons don't want to go back in past the new seals as there's friction there. Is this normal and do I just need to force them past somehow? I don't think the pads will fit back on and everything back over the rotors as they stand now...

Anyone know the trick?

 

Got them all back together. I guess I needed to 'take my skirt off' and push harder. Used the earlier 1x2 (liked it better than a 2x4) to help wedge them in there. I'll post up a few pics of the finished product later.

Overall it wasn't too bad of a job. It's messy, anything with brakes are. I put on new rotors and new Hawk pads while I was at it. Now I just need to replace the fluid that leaked out and hope I did it all correctly!

Thanks to Johann @ Girodisc for the setup.


Edit - pics added:
Here's all the old dust boots (all cracked into 2 pieces and brittle) and seals from just my fronts.


Shot of the front caliper - all done!

 

This is what I was talking about.

 

God dammmmn boom . I'll have to have pops recheck them again but I think i'm in good shape still because I started with the Ti backing plates. No black gunk or anything to be seen and i'm sure we're both just as hard on em. Something to consider while you got the process down pact

 

I'm proud! Just can't seem to get my calipers any darker though since I put cooling ducts on them at the start of 2008.

Yeah, I've been flooding this thread with pics! I didn't find a lot of details so I wanted to try and help out others.

Just to let you know, I did not notice any braking deterioration prior to me seeing some of the leakage. So it must have been extremely minor and no ill effects. I have been using Ti shims up front too, but only since the start of 2008. They look pretty torched!

 

Had some more caliper issues I wanted to make others aware of.

1) Partially stripped one of the caliper support bolts. I have longer 10mm allen-head bolts as part of my Forge cooling duct kit. Not sure how I screwed this up, so just beware. I also check the torque everytime I change tires!

2) Tonight I actually cracked off a bleeder nipple! I was trying to bleed the brakes and was loosening the outside front using a deep 11mm socket. It broke off right at the caliper level (see pic). Crazy eh! I'm thinking this is probably because of both the age/usage of the bleeder and the fact I probably overtighten it nearly every time.

 

I need to do this myself but this is a winter project since all is well for now but I am at 48k so they prolly need done.

 

Torque wrench FTW.

Thanks for posting the pics.

l8r)

 

good info in here...im going to have to do this soon too

 

Ha, I had the same thing happen to me!

I think the forge screw is just a hair too long, the brake dust, rust and crap build onto the end of bolt that sticks out on the other end. Then when you undo the bolts, the dirt adds resistance and the bolt gets partially stripped (along with the threads on the caliper

Next time I will be sure to blow some air, brake cleaner & then penetrating oil into the space between rotor and caliper to try and loosed the junk up from the end of the bolt. If I can slide out the disc without removing caliper, I may try to wire brush in there as well.