i searched but didn't find much so hoping if people can explain when its time to get the caliper rebuilt. Do i need a rebuild if the dust boots are shot? Or do the inside seals have to give and leaking for a caliper to require a rebuild?

I have 65K on the car with about 8-10 track days, the dust sheilds are busted, but don't see any leaks.

I'm getting very loud squeak/groan noise when applying the brakes and the noise gets louder the harder you get on the brakes. pads have a bit of life left, but wondering if its just the pads (keep in mind not talking squealing here). is there a way to check if the pistons are all working right. i don't have anyone that can sit in the car and press the pedal for me to see if all 4pistons work.

thanks

 

OK... "loud sqeak", but not a squeal? LOL..

Do you mean the rubber dust boots are busted or cracked??? If so, REPLACE them!! I went to about 5 track days and 5-6 autox's last year. At the end of the year, every one of my front caliper dust boots were torn, but the seals were not leaking. I replaced ASAP!! If your pads are nearly done, REPLACE them. Do all that first... and sounds like soon. If your pads have any wear indicator, than it might be scraping against the rotor.

BTW: those stupid rubber dust boots are freakin expensive.. !

 

I agree with Laminar. If your dust boots are broken, cracked, etc. replaced them asap. Thats what keeps crap from getting to your square cut o-rings and causing a leak. Since your brake pads don't have a massive amount of life left, I'd consider doing pads and maybe even rotors and see if the squeak stops before you go as far as trying to rebuild your calipers. thats just my .02 c.

 

Most calipers on race cars do not have dust boots. Dust boots just prevent road grime from getting in to the actual seals. If you can just replace the dust boots, I would recommend that, but a broken dust boot does not imply that the actual caliper needs a rebuild. A rebuild is needed if you are actually leaking fluid or at the scheduled interval - if you track your car. If you track your car, prepare yourself to replace the boots after a few events if you are using any sort of track pad. The temps created by race pads exceed what the dust boots can withstand.

A caliper rebuild includes taking out of the pistons and replacing the seals. Replacing the dust boots is just that - it is not a caliper rebuild.

Can the dust boots be even gotten separately from the caliper rebuild kits for our cars?

 

^^^ Yes..
http://girodisc.com/catalog/product_...oducts_id=215/

 

Yeah, such a deal. For less than that you can get a full set of boots and seals from Subaru.

Dave

 

thanks for the input guys. I did swap out the pads last week and the noise went away and it was the inside pads on both front calipers that were worn out way more than the outside pads. The dust boots are cracked and based on everyone's input, i'll get those replaced. It's good knowing that the dust boots can be replaced without having to do all the seals. thanks

BTW- Any instructions on how to replace the dust boots?

 

Take out the pads. You want to use a wood block wedged between two of the pistons to hold them in, while you pump the brake once or twice to let the other two pistons extend outward. Then you can use your hand to press one of the two extended pistons back in, further extending the 4th piston to where you can pull off the boot. Should extend out maybe 3/4". You probebly need a small flathead screwdriver to pry it off. Fit the new boot around the piston, press the piston back in, and make sure the boot seals against the inside of the caliper. Repeat for the other seven pistons. I've got pictures of the swap somewhere if you want me to post them.

 

All this talk on replacing....has anyone wrote a How to on it? Before I start I would like to know what Im getting myself into lol

 

nevermind I got it

 

Laminar, could you post pics please?

 

Google will never be beaten lol

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_rebuild.htm

 

be sure when you press back in the pistons if and when you do a full rebuild, you get them in straight! dont force them, this will cause the piston to get stuck under normal braking conditions... and your pads WILL drag on the rotor... and if its sticking with normal drving... kiss the track good-bye...

 

1 or 2 track days and the dust boots will be history anyway. why bother?

 

Thanks for the details.

What's the general consensus on this? Is replacing the dust boots worth it for a tracked car that is not driven on dusty/dirty/gravel roads?

My dust boots are cracking but there's not leaking and no sign of any braking issues. Just want to be proactive here!