I called my dealer and they said they gotta test drive my car before they put it on the alignment machine? I thought you can just stick it on the machine, get the specs and then align it? Is there a reason for them having to test drive the car before aligning it? I've never had that done with any other car before.

 

I'd guess that if you are trying to get an alignment covered by warranty, they would be well within their rights to ask to test drive the car.

If you're not trying to get an alignment under warranty, perhaps you shouldn't go to a Mitsu dealer -- typically they are not as well equipped or trained for alignment as a specialty alignment or performance shop.

 

I guess. I'm taking my car to Pepboys then, they can service warranty claims without BS joyrides.

 

No. there is NO reason they should need to drive the car...


total BS.. If it is for warrenty reasons they can just tell you if it is within spec you will have to pay..


- Zach

 

I took my car in under pit pass to have oil change tire rotation and alignment checked because I think it is off. Well they took my car for a 3 mile ride without even telling me, on a road the u couldn't even tell if alignment is off. Well then they didn't even rotate. Didn't know that there were 2 Mobil 1 oil weights available to use etc.. Never put it up on alignment rack to check it. What a fuggin waist of 2 hrs. They just write no problem with alignment on receipt. I am very dissapointed in Courtesy Mit service department in Las Vegas. What a waist of money (pit pass). That is not even the whole story it was bad.

 

I didn't know Pep Boys did warranty service. Is this correct?

 

Well, I called two dealers within my area--one said I needed to leave it with them for about 6hrs and the other said 2hrs--and that's with appointment much later in the week! One even asked if I bought the car from them (I gave them the first opportunity for my car purchase, but they declined it, so I didn't, but what does that matter?).

So I called Pepboys and they said they also can claim warranty service for you, so they're getting my business from now on. No more dealer jacked up prices ($120 for a freakin alignment, plus 2hr minimum joyride).

 

Has anyone asked to go on the test drives with the "techs" ? This way you could monitor how their driving your car, and describe to them what you are feeling when driving. Maybe have you drive from the dealership, then have the "tech" drive back. I dont think any professional dealer should have a problem doing this.

Just a thought....

 

Every alignment shop I have been to requires a test drive before and after service, to ensure any driveability issues that existed before have been corrected. Also makes sure the steering wheel is centered when going straight ahead, kinda a requirement for most people esthetically.

 

yes, I agree with 2Cool, every car I owned have lower spring and performance shocks. After I done with the installation, I always go to a alignment shop to redo the alignment. and I never go to those shop with fancy alignment machine. the shop I went to, they do it manually, the old way. and test drive the car a few times before its done. so far I have NO complain at all !!

 

exactly what Trustz said, the electronic alignment machines are ****. the manual ones are best, still.

 

Ah, so I learn something everyday. They hype those electronic machines so much.

 

I've done full rear alignments on my car twice in the past month in my own garage. If you are at all comfortable with climbing under the car and turning a wrench, doing rear alignment on the Evo (camber and toe) is a piece of cake. Measuring camber and toe is easier than you might think.

And I know that the rear camber and toe are set correctly, because I measured them myself. Manually. And then measured them again after driving it.

 

Is that so? I would love to do my own alignment. Can you do a "how to" for us? I'm sure we'd all like to know how!

 

I'll start with how to measure camber...

First, and very important. Park the car on a flat level surface with the front wheels pointed directly forward. If the surface isn't level, or if the front wheels are turned, it will throw off your results. Also, the wheels should be inflated to the proper pressure.

Take a string and tie a small weight to the end. I use a small socket from my socket set as the weight. Now tape the string to the fender above your wheel so that the string drops directly past the center of the wheel and such that the weight hangs just about 1mm off the ground. Let the string and weight settle so that there is no swinging.

Measure the distance between the rim of the wheel and the string at the bottom of the wheel - call this distance D1. Measure the distance between the rim of the wheel and the string at the top of the wheel - call this distance D2. Call the diameter of the wheel W.

The camber angle of the wheel is equal to:

arcsin((D1-D2)/W)

Which for any practical camber angle can be approximated as:

(D1-D2)/W*57.3 degrees

I use a ruler marked in 1/32 inch increments to measure the distances; one example might be:

D1 = 8/32 inch
D2 = 22/32 inch
W = 17 inches

So the camber angle is determined:

(8/32-22/32)/17 * 57.3 degrees

-1.47 degrees


Repeat for all four wheels.