Got my 8 aligned at the dealer, but everything was in degrees. Anyone have the stock specs for toe in degrees?

 

Do a search on alignment specs and you should find them.
Alignments are in degrees not inches.

 

I've only seen the specs listed like in this thread. Last 10 alignments I've had listed toe in a linear measurment "Toe-in mm (in.): 0 +/- 2 ( 0 +/- 0.08)", just like this post. My latest alignment had toe in degrees.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...lignment+specs

 

you can also do the math, all you have to do is measure the difference of the track of the tires from the front half of the tires and the rear half,.. it just takes some trig to do it =) (and who's sez you dont use stuff from school after you graduate)

from my experience for a 24.9" overall diameter tire, I think a 1/16" toe out/in is 1/2 degree or 1 degree to use as a ballpark number.

Keefe

 

Or, if you want to do it a little more simply, just do some math. Formula for converting can be found here:
http://www.mgfcar.de/tracking/ebspur.htm

When I had the alignment done initially, the alignment shop did not convert correctly from my asked 1.5mm in rear. They ened up setting it actually to whopping 12mm!!! Obvisoulsy I needed new tires 2 months later as you can imagine what was happening with over 1 degree of toe!!!

To answer your question. Stock toe in rear is +3mm, which is approximately
+0.12" OR
+0.4 deg OR
+24 minutes.

Stock toe in front is 0mm, or 0" or 0 deg or 0 minutes.

 

ouch 12mm!! How did it handle?

 

Well, since I had the alignment done on a new car, it felt to me like it had tons of understeer but I brushed it off as having a new car and being totally new to 4wd cars. I clued in that something was not right when my backend was all over the road doing speedlimit in a rain storm and then checking the tires out. I would not recommend 12mm toe in rear

Running 1.5mm now and it is great!

 

So far 0.0" toe works best for me... so to convert that to degrees I'd multiply by a random number... carry the remainder... divide by pi... yep, 0 degrees too.

 

A couple of people here have recommended the following
alignment specs for reducing understeer and producing
better autocross and track performance:

Front camber: as much as you can get (typically -1.5 to -2 degrees)
Rear camber: -.5 degrees
Toe: 0 front and rear

I tried this setting, and it seems perfect. I found a constant
radius circle and tried going around it at various different
speeds. The car took the same line no matter what speed
I drove. Same thing on highway exit ramps (hint: find a
full cloverleaf highway intersection, and keep taking the
right turns -- you can practice your cornering all day. )

Also, had it out on the track last Friday, and it felt completely
neutral on the big sweeper, and fine everywhere else, except
for the uphill exit from a hairpin, where the light front wheels
let the inside front tire break loose under acceleration in 2nd
gear.

As for degrees vs. mm. or in. issue, toe in/out is traditionally
specified in linear measurement (mm. or in.), specifically the
difference in distance between the fronts of the tires vs. the
backs of the tires. This is unfortunate, because the degrees
of toe in and toe out are what you really want to know, if you
are care about slip angles and such. Also the angle
doesn't change when you change tire size, unlike the linear
measurement. Making your tires bigger or smaller will change
the number of mm. of toe in or toe out you have, even if
you don't do an alignment. But it doesn't change the way
toe affects the under/oversteer characteristics.

Michael

 

Here is a chart that should be helpful, it is out of a book called "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn.