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vibration when braking

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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:06 AM
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vibration when braking

ok so i check my brake pads and both the front and rear still have alot of life on them yet when i brake my steering wheel shakes alot....could it be my rotors that i need to change??? the car has 55k miles so im guessing this could be it....any input would be greatly appreciated.....thank you
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:12 AM
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most likely your rotors they could be warped from gettin to hot...you could take your car to the dealership and have them check the rotors and see if they can be turned down, if they are to warped youll have to buy new ones
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:14 AM
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thanks, that's most likely what i thought it was but i just wanted a second opinion lol
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:15 AM
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yep, it's your rotors.
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:36 AM
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thanks man....i should change all four huh?
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:45 AM
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Change all four if you want consistant breaking. PM me if you have any questions or want a good deal on crossdrilled and slotted rotors.

Josh
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 07:07 AM
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you've been pmed my friend
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Originally Posted by evane
most likely your rotors they could be warped from gettin to hot...you could take your car to the dealership and have them check the rotors and see if they can be turned down, if they are to warped youll have to buy new ones
Rotors do not warp from heat. That wobble you have is pad material build up, which results in hotspots on the rotor.

But with 55k on the rotors. They are mostlikely at the end of their useful service life.

Blanks can be had for $245 for all 4:
http://www.maperformance.com/rotorpr...o-viii-ix.html

I would get blanks. I was not really happy with the slotted. Slotted can help with degasing, but they also generate heat everytime the slot passes the pad. I think the Evos braking platform does a great job. I have not noticed any difference on the track between the slotted or blank discs.
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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if you do decide to change your rotors i have had good service out of the power slot cryo treated units.they do not wear out and stay true.i think you can get a front set for like 250.00 for the pair.i think the rears are alittle less at 200.00.make sure and put new pads on if you out on new rotors.
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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it could be your rotors but, have your wheels been off the car recently? try re-torquing your lugs before you go replacing the rotors. I recently (about 4 months ago) put a new set of DS2500 pads on my 30k mile ebay rotorpro rotors and experienced the same thing. after a quick re-torque of the wheels after about 100 miles the sensation is completely gone and the brakes feel solid again.
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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thanks ill look into it.... ill check my lugs now during my lunch break
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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we had a car that kept warping rotors (front)
after many incidents put the plastic underpanel back on the car and stopped warping them. the panel got grooves that direct air to the brakes.

hope this can help
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
The undertray pushes minimal air to the rotors at best.
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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PF 2 Piece Dimped best rotors out there... also when the rotor gets worn down just buy new rotors saving cost... reuse the HATs...

if you want to cool those brakes the only REAL way is AMS brake cooling kit have it installed and never over heat now...

check here for the VR guys who installed mine.
http://www.vrperformance.com/mt/2008...rade.html#more
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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also if you are braking for a long long time that will kill your brakes quickly... espically if you on track... shorter harder braking will save them, and prevent that from happening...



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