Thanks in advance for everyone's input. I've been running all California race tracks. Mostly Button Willow and Big Willow Springs. It's become very apparent the front needs tons more negative camber as the tires are rolling onto their side walls. These are very high speed tracks with lots of high g constant radius turns. So here is what I am thinking of doing to improve tire wear and reduce understeeer. All input is appreciated. P.S. Next track day is Laguna Seca.

I already have the eccentric bolt turned 180 degrees. In addition to this I will be installing Cusco camber plates front.

-2.5 degrees camber front
-1.0 degrees rear

Completely unaware of how much toe to run front and rear.

Also considering running a stiffer rear spring instead of a thicker sway bar. Tein makes a set of springs with 231lbs front and 291 rear.

Thanks

 

Im coming from another world of tuning but is your car adequately braced If not spend a couple bucks on a rear strut tower brace it will make the car more neutral, you can also do the front and under body braces but they will bring back some of that understeer. But it will keep the active camber more constant and keep it where you set it.

Afeter that dont just get camber plates, get something that will alow you to adjust the caster because that way you will still be stable in a straight line but as you corner you will gain negative camber and be able to increase your cornering speeds.

D

Oh yeah none of this will do your ride quality any favors.

 

good luck at seca thats a scary track the walls are really close

 

I already have the cusco 3 point triangulating rear bar, the trunk bar, and the front Type-1 under bar brace.

I'm trying to get better tire contact with the increased negative camber. As I mentioned the tire is rolling over in hard constant cornering. Not so concerned with ride quality that much. I previously drove an R1 RX-7.

 

Is this a street/track car or mostly track?
I have 1/8" toe out up front, that seemed to help under steer a bit and did not seem to significantly affect daily driving/tire wear. I am planning to do 1/8 of toe in at the rear, that should also reduce understeer. Also with the A046's adding more pressure in the rear tires made a good improvement with understeer as well. I run 33PSI/38PSI front/rear, this is the opposite effect of what I have expereinces with other tires so..... It's hard to argue with the results.
I also want to do more suspension upgrades but for now these little tweaks seem to help quite a bit. My current settings are:

Front: -1.5 camber, 1/8" toe out, 33PSI
Rear: -1.25 camber, 0 toe going to 1/8 toe in, 38PSI

 

This is a daily driven (80 miles a day) car that sees on average 2 track days a month. The rear tire pressure in effect is giving you a higher rear spring rate. Which is why I am considering the Tein springs.

 

you are going to burn through tires driving that much daily you should look for some orthe way to get a better contact patch, caster kits will help with out your active alignment and cornering speeds and contact patch by giving more active negative camber.

the tire air pressure can work wonders.

also try swaybars this is also a good way to get more cornering grip and not chew through tires ont he street.

 

With the camber plates I can reset the suspension back to streetable specs after the weekend is over. From everything I can tell a larger rear sway bar is going to just cause the inside rear wheel to lift. That is why I am leaning towards a stiffer rear spring.

I'm already doing the higher rear air pressure. Trust me when I say I have tried every variation in tire pressure from 28psi to 40psi in 1 psi increments in the front and I find that 31psi cold (40 or so hot) is the best and yet I still get tons of roll over.

 

I guess, but other tires that I tracked with the EVO have actually had the opposite effect with tire presure so....

How do those Tein spring rates compare to stock? Are they linear or progresive?

A stiffer rear end will reduce understeer, but how much higher spring rate can we use on the stock shock?
As far as I know we don't even know what the stock spring rates are yet.
Some one on here suggested that they would not go more than 50lbs higher than the stock spring rates otherwise you might end up outside the effective damping rate of the shock.

A fully adjustable coil over set with a large and cheap selection of spring rates would be nice. I am just not ready to go there just yet. BTW what rates do those kits normally come with? Most of the time people selling that stuff don't have a clue.

Moving the battery to the trunk and taking the metal bumper piece out of the front would help also. Those front break rotors are pretty heavy also, a nice aluminum hat after market rotor would shave a few pounds off the front end.

So did the rear Cusco bars make a noticable impovement?

What is the other rear bar that you mentioned supposed to do?

 

Just a FYI, you can have both Cusco Type I and Type II bars at the same time That's how mine's setup. Look at my signature.

 

Surfer,
I have not found any good info on the stock spring rates so it's hard to say if the Tein are excessively stiff. They are linear. My biggest issue is they lower the car too much. I would be willing to try Eibach or H&R but they will not tell you the springs rates and I for sure would not get a set of springs if the rear was not stiffer than the front.

I'm trying to stay away from Coil-Overs. I want something more streetable than that. They are usually much too stiff and the dampning is too tailored to track surfaces.

The Cusco bars tightened up the chasis to a noteicable amount. Especially driving on rought pavement you can feel the suspension doing more work to absord the energy from the bumps. It also helped slightly in steering response.

The trunk bar ties together the cavity where the spare tire goes. I'm actually in the process of making a similar bar but out of Titanium for not much more than the Cusco. It will include Titanium bolts and washers, everything will be made of Ti.

 

man that really stiff rear tein spring your considering looks very extreme... almost something intended for drifting... which i wouldn't be surprised bc drifting is so big over there..

we're just going to try a stiffer rear sway with the stock front as a start. we're still running stock suspension right now tho, considering tein's or jics..

you thought about corner weighing your car yet?

 

corner weighing and balancing is a must if you want max performance out of your car on the track. they usually run between $200-300 over here in Cali..