Need help with new KW V3's setup
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From: From Vegas to Reno
Need help with new KW V3's setup
A friend had a set of Robispec KW's that we put on my car. I just had a few questions for the experts hehe. I was going to call drew at GTWORX but figured I would just throw a post up and see what the general consensus was.
Question 1: I have the stock spring rates, 7k front and 8k rear. Robi switches them around from the normal 8k 7k I believe. Car is very tailhappy now. Question is do I need a little higher rates then those? Robi normally sells 8k front 9k rear but these happened to be straight from KW and he didnt change the springs. The 8k 9k's are still on my friends car since he still has his other set of KW's lol. So should I up the rates? I normally autocross and do a few track events a year, have RE-01R's now and have an extra set of NT03+M's to put slicks on after this winter. Also the car is very tail happy and I do prefer a bit more neutral. I dont have a rear sway at the moment either, planning on the whiteline rear bar.
Question 2: Using the stock camber bolts, I can only get about -2 degrees camber in the front. I dont have the KW bolts, is there anywhere I can get those? I reused stock top hats front and rear. Will probably pick up camber plates when I change the spring rates, but Im wondering if I should pick up the KW bolts or some other aftermarket bolts for the time being.
Question 3: In the rear, we have the helper springs on the top. They looked like they worked ok in the stock top hat. We put the purple spacer thing in the top though and it looked like it may have sat a touch crooked but I couldnt tell. Should that be spring straight to top hat or is it right with that extra spacer thing at the top?
Drew, if you are reading this hehe. If you can let me know your recomendations and also let me know how much new springs would be (some swifts would work hehe).
Also anyone have a recommended setting to start off with on bump and rebound? I believe Robi sets them both right in the middle.
Question 1: I have the stock spring rates, 7k front and 8k rear. Robi switches them around from the normal 8k 7k I believe. Car is very tailhappy now. Question is do I need a little higher rates then those? Robi normally sells 8k front 9k rear but these happened to be straight from KW and he didnt change the springs. The 8k 9k's are still on my friends car since he still has his other set of KW's lol. So should I up the rates? I normally autocross and do a few track events a year, have RE-01R's now and have an extra set of NT03+M's to put slicks on after this winter. Also the car is very tail happy and I do prefer a bit more neutral. I dont have a rear sway at the moment either, planning on the whiteline rear bar.
Question 2: Using the stock camber bolts, I can only get about -2 degrees camber in the front. I dont have the KW bolts, is there anywhere I can get those? I reused stock top hats front and rear. Will probably pick up camber plates when I change the spring rates, but Im wondering if I should pick up the KW bolts or some other aftermarket bolts for the time being.
Question 3: In the rear, we have the helper springs on the top. They looked like they worked ok in the stock top hat. We put the purple spacer thing in the top though and it looked like it may have sat a touch crooked but I couldnt tell. Should that be spring straight to top hat or is it right with that extra spacer thing at the top?
Drew, if you are reading this hehe. If you can let me know your recomendations and also let me know how much new springs would be (some swifts would work hehe).
Also anyone have a recommended setting to start off with on bump and rebound? I believe Robi sets them both right in the middle.
First, what's your alignment set at?
7k/8k shouldn't be too tailhappy. I usually like that set-up quite a bit, and i'm not oversteer crazy like a lot of people.
We can do Swift coilover springs....and they are awesome.....but I wouldn't go to a stiffer set-up just yet. I know, I know....a vendor telling someone not to buy something. If you want to be nationally STU auto-x competitive, then yes, you will need to go stiffer, but i really like 7k/8k for a DD with some track and auto-x in there for fun. A little bit of body roll is OKAY
. Give it a shot.
I've honestly never tried the OEM camber bolts with KW's. We can get replacements, but they aren't cheap. We might actually have 1 in stock that sat on my desk for months....call us and ask Mike (i'm not in). I believe with just the KW bolts you can get a bit more then -2, Robi might know exactly how much.
For damper settings, I've got no idea since I think Robi's valving is different then standard KW's. I'm working on a thread that will give some help on how to start from scratch.
- Andrew
7k/8k shouldn't be too tailhappy. I usually like that set-up quite a bit, and i'm not oversteer crazy like a lot of people.
We can do Swift coilover springs....and they are awesome.....but I wouldn't go to a stiffer set-up just yet. I know, I know....a vendor telling someone not to buy something. If you want to be nationally STU auto-x competitive, then yes, you will need to go stiffer, but i really like 7k/8k for a DD with some track and auto-x in there for fun. A little bit of body roll is OKAY
. Give it a shot.I've honestly never tried the OEM camber bolts with KW's. We can get replacements, but they aren't cheap. We might actually have 1 in stock that sat on my desk for months....call us and ask Mike (i'm not in). I believe with just the KW bolts you can get a bit more then -2, Robi might know exactly how much.
For damper settings, I've got no idea since I think Robi's valving is different then standard KW's. I'm working on a thread that will give some help on how to start from scratch.
- Andrew
what about the spring isolator being used in the rear is that okay I am pretty sure I have them in.
I have damper setting from robi written down.
The car shouldn't be THAT tail happy chris. Is it real bad?
I have damper setting from robi written down.
The car shouldn't be THAT tail happy chris. Is it real bad?
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From: From Vegas to Reno
Thanks for the response Drew. Ya like Brandon said I could only get out to Right -1.9 and Left -2.2 for front camber. Rear is set to -2 which might be a touch too much for the street. Im probably just not used to them yet. The tail came around on me bigtime one morning heading to work, but I came in kind of hot and might have been too quick on the throttle. With the softer bilstein/spring combo it pushed alot more so I was used to that. Now the tail comes out with ease with throttle input, but I did give it quite a bit. I was full sideways facing the median 5 feet away, it kind of freaked me out lol. I recovered, but I was like umm ya not doing that again!
I was thinking stiffer springs because Robi normally goes 8k front 9k rear but he accidentally ordered the 7k/8k ones when Brandon needed a new set (or thought he did hehe). Remember I plan on running slicks for autocross next year on the 17x9.5 NTO3+M's I have, so thats why I was thinking of higher rates. The Reno region SCCA seems to be a bit more competetive then our local region, and thats where Im moving to. So getting competitive is definitely in the future hehe. Also I'll be doing club and time trials up there too at Reno Fernley. We are buying a daily driver so honestly the evo will be garaged and sitting mostly so Im not too worried about daily driveability like a normal commuter.
Drew I'll give Mike a call tomorrow, or if you get back and can PM me some info about those swift springs and your recommendation on what rates that would work. I prefer a more neutral car honestly, so if that means going same rates front and rear Im not opposed to that. I also want those whiteline camber plates we talked about a while ago, but we do have one bolt sitting here so I would take that other one off your hands!
I was thinking stiffer springs because Robi normally goes 8k front 9k rear but he accidentally ordered the 7k/8k ones when Brandon needed a new set (or thought he did hehe). Remember I plan on running slicks for autocross next year on the 17x9.5 NTO3+M's I have, so thats why I was thinking of higher rates. The Reno region SCCA seems to be a bit more competetive then our local region, and thats where Im moving to. So getting competitive is definitely in the future hehe. Also I'll be doing club and time trials up there too at Reno Fernley. We are buying a daily driver so honestly the evo will be garaged and sitting mostly so Im not too worried about daily driveability like a normal commuter.
Drew I'll give Mike a call tomorrow, or if you get back and can PM me some info about those swift springs and your recommendation on what rates that would work. I prefer a more neutral car honestly, so if that means going same rates front and rear Im not opposed to that. I also want those whiteline camber plates we talked about a while ago, but we do have one bolt sitting here so I would take that other one off your hands!
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