My massive suspension question brain dump...pls. pic off a question or two!!!
Nov 23, 2008, 03:07 PM
#31
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After installing the roll center kit, do you need an alignment or corner balance?
When working with the suspension mods discussed in this thread (struts/spring or coilovers, F/R bars, roll center kit) is there anything you should be extra careful with so that your car does not have any oversteer/understeer issues?
GTworx, do I remember correctly that you have a good write up on the front sway bar install somewhere?
When working with the suspension mods discussed in this thread (struts/spring or coilovers, F/R bars, roll center kit) is there anything you should be extra careful with so that your car does not have any oversteer/understeer issues?
GTworx, do I remember correctly that you have a good write up on the front sway bar install somewhere?
Nov 23, 2008, 03:56 PM
#32
After installing the roll center kit, do you need an alignment or corner balance?
When working with the suspension mods discussed in this thread (struts/spring or coilovers, F/R bars, roll center kit) is there anything you should be extra careful with so that your car does not have any oversteer/understeer issues?
GTworx, do I remember correctly that you have a good write up on the front sway bar install somewhere?
When working with the suspension mods discussed in this thread (struts/spring or coilovers, F/R bars, roll center kit) is there anything you should be extra careful with so that your car does not have any oversteer/understeer issues?
GTworx, do I remember correctly that you have a good write up on the front sway bar install somewhere?
Important things to consider I would say are your alignment and tire pressures. These are surprisingly overlooked after people do big suspension installs on their street car, but shoot for -1.8-ish up front, 1.0 to -1.5 rear, and zero toe for a street car. I would also try not to go TOO big on the rear sway bar.
PM me for the write-up on the front bar.
- Andrew
Nov 24, 2008, 12:14 PM
#34
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Yes, you need an alignment after that install. You could get away without doing another cornerbalance.
Important things to consider I would say are your alignment and tire pressures. These are surprisingly overlooked after people do big suspension installs on their street car, but shoot for -1.8-ish up front, 1.0 to -1.5 rear, and zero toe for a street car. I would also try not to go TOO big on the rear sway bar.
PM me for the write-up on the front bar.
- Andrew
Important things to consider I would say are your alignment and tire pressures. These are surprisingly overlooked after people do big suspension installs on their street car, but shoot for -1.8-ish up front, 1.0 to -1.5 rear, and zero toe for a street car. I would also try not to go TOO big on the rear sway bar.
PM me for the write-up on the front bar.
- Andrew
I'm currently running -2.5 front and -1.0 in the rear with zero toe. Would it be better to go with a -2.0/-1.5-ish type set-up for a weekend warrior type car (similar to what the original thread poster was describing)???
You also have a PM for the front sway bar install instructions. Thanks for the help!
Nov 24, 2008, 12:52 PM
#35
What tires? What events?
-2.5 might be a bit much on street tires. But its good on r-comps. Their grip rolls over the tire a little more than street tires are able to.
I like a little more rear camber to help rotate the car and keep the tires from rolling over around tight turns. Depends on the driver/event though.
-2.5 might be a bit much on street tires. But its good on r-comps. Their grip rolls over the tire a little more than street tires are able to.
I like a little more rear camber to help rotate the car and keep the tires from rolling over around tight turns. Depends on the driver/event though.
Nov 24, 2008, 03:53 PM
#36
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What would be optimal camber and toe for my setup (HD Bilsteins, GTWORX Springs, 235/45 Z1s, Whiteline sways) and backroads twisties/occasional trackday in your opinion? How would it change when running 255 Z1s?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Nov 24, 2008, 04:04 PM
#37
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Sorry... the car was originally being set up for STU. I'm currently still wearing out the stock yokos, but will be going with Z1s next year, stock size.
Now I'm at the point where I just want to mod the car to what I want to do, not mod to SCCA rules and autoX for fun while picking up a few lapping days each year. I'm going to continue to stay on street tires and like having a car that you can drive to the track, set the coilovers, set the tire pressure and go whether its a track day or solo event.
Now I'm at the point where I just want to mod the car to what I want to do, not mod to SCCA rules and autoX for fun while picking up a few lapping days each year. I'm going to continue to stay on street tires and like having a car that you can drive to the track, set the coilovers, set the tire pressure and go whether its a track day or solo event.
Nov 24, 2008, 04:08 PM
#39
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No skin off my back....looks like we have similar needs...I want the setup that can do it all as well, that's why I opted for the HD Bilstein/Sway bar/ GTWORX setup so it works well in all situations without messing with too much. Post on! 
Nov 24, 2008, 07:11 PM
#40
With 255 Z1's keep it there....camber plates would help you get more, but you would start compromising tire wear past around -2.0 degrees.
- Andrew
Nov 24, 2008, 07:16 PM
#41
Sorry... the car was originally being set up for STU. I'm currently still wearing out the stock yokos, but will be going with Z1s next year, stock size.
Now I'm at the point where I just want to mod the car to what I want to do, not mod to SCCA rules and autoX for fun while picking up a few lapping days each year. I'm going to continue to stay on street tires and like having a car that you can drive to the track, set the coilovers, set the tire pressure and go whether its a track day or solo event.
Now I'm at the point where I just want to mod the car to what I want to do, not mod to SCCA rules and autoX for fun while picking up a few lapping days each year. I'm going to continue to stay on street tires and like having a car that you can drive to the track, set the coilovers, set the tire pressure and go whether its a track day or solo event.
But 2.0 or so is fine if that's an issue. -1.5ish in the rear should be good for you.
And actually, if you have plates and aren't looking for more then -2.5 degrees camber, I'd rotate/swap them and angle them for as much caster as you can get.
- Andrew
Nov 26, 2008, 06:49 AM
#43
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I agree with Smike. And you have camber plates right? Set the front camber bolts to the more negative setting and use the plates to get what you want. If you're okay with the tire wear that -2.5 up front gets you I might keep it there.
But 2.0 or so is fine if that's an issue. -1.5ish in the rear should be good for you.
And actually, if you have plates and aren't looking for more then -2.5 degrees camber, I'd rotate/swap them and angle them for as much caster as you can get.
- Andrew
But 2.0 or so is fine if that's an issue. -1.5ish in the rear should be good for you.
And actually, if you have plates and aren't looking for more then -2.5 degrees camber, I'd rotate/swap them and angle them for as much caster as you can get.
- Andrew
Is there anything else besides the roll center kit and front sway bar that I should install when I have the front part of the car apart? Since it is such a painful install I want to make sure and get it right the first time.
Dec 1, 2008, 07:42 AM
#44
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When choosing a front and rear bar combo, is it best to stick with the same manufacturer for both bars? GTworx has recomended 26mm front, 24mm rear, but would there be any reason you couldn't go with a Whiteline front bar and a different manufacturer for a rear bar?
Earlier Andrew said the swift bars were a little softer than the whiteline bars, but is the difference enough to change handling characteristics?
Earlier Andrew said the swift bars were a little softer than the whiteline bars, but is the difference enough to change handling characteristics?