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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #16  
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So after you hook up the motive you take each wheel off and drain the brake line and it pushes the new fluid to that wheels. You just go around? Sounds like a good deal for 40 bucks but I honestly thought they were more. If you took your car to a shop it would be a lot more
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MR White
So after you hook up the motive you take each wheel off and drain the brake line and it pushes the new fluid to that wheels. You just go around? Sounds like a good deal for 40 bucks but I honestly thought they were more. If you took your car to a shop it would be a lot more
you got it, just fill up the motive, pump it to 15psi and start bleeding and the pressure pushes the fluids through the lines and out the valves when opened and then close when you see no air bubbles. you dont have to worry about the reservoir going empty and getting air in the lines or having to constantly check the fluid level and refilling it. they run around 50 or 60 bucks at most i believe.

Last edited by tougetuned; Dec 17, 2008 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #18  
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I tried Mityvac (from the local auto stores) and the traditional 2-man method. Then bought the Motive Power Bleeder and wondered why I never bought that to begin with. It seriously is what every claims it is. You won't regret it at all.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 07:21 PM
  #19  
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Damn, you guys sold me. I'm going to try and pick one up and finish up my brakes. What about recommendations on fluid? Also steel braided lines worth doing at the same time. Looking mostly to track my car on an autocross course.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MR White
Damn, you guys sold me. I'm going to try and pick one up and finish up my brakes. What about recommendations on fluid? Also steel braided lines worth doing at the same time. Looking mostly to track my car on an autocross course.
ate super blue is my pick, great for street, yet good on the track from my experience, went through 4-5 track days + daily driving to school, work, and around town before i had to bleed/flush, dont really like the motul rbf for street, but it does alright on the track, but the cost doesnt really justify it for me, castrol lma is good on the street for daily driving, ive heard good things about valvoline synpower, but never tried it and i know castrol has a really good synthetic fluid but it costs a pretty penny. as far as brakelines i run goodridge havent had any problems with them, but any of the common/popular brands should be fine, just my .02.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MR White
Damn, you guys sold me. I'm going to try and pick one up and finish up my brakes. What about recommendations on fluid? Also steel braided lines worth doing at the same time. Looking mostly to track my car on an autocross course.
I've read good things about ATE super blue and Motul. Good to use on street as well. I will say yes on change steel braided lines.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:24 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for the recommendations. WHen the brake fluid starts getting really dark that usually means it's time for a change huh?
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MR White
Thanks for the recommendations. WHen the brake fluid starts getting really dark that usually means it's time for a change huh?
usually i change/flush it every 8-10 months or so more often if tracking a lot, but thats just me, some ppl may see that as stupid if the fluid isnt dirty or looking grimmy but i get bored sometimes, so im just like why not flush my brake lines, lol

here ya go here is a link to a thread, this should answer alot question about brake fluid:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...fraid-ask.html

Last edited by tougetuned; Dec 17, 2008 at 09:37 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 05:38 PM
  #24  
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if you like to make things you can make a pressure bleeder for around $20-25

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/pressure-.../bleeder.shtml

i have a homemade one at the house and it works great, its hilarious that the dealership wanted 55+cost of fluid to bleed my clutch hahaha
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 12:43 AM
  #25  
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How much fluid is generally needed to flush out the brake and clutch system?
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 09:32 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by omniprobe
How much fluid is generally needed to flush out the brake and clutch system?
Many people claim to go with three 12 oz bottles of brake fluid to complete the task. That being said, I run ATE Super Blue. 1 can is only like $15 and contains a whole liter. For the money thats about as good as it gets.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 12:35 PM
  #27  
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Which Motive Power adapter are you using on the Evos?



Found the old thread from 2005, Ford three prong type, Motive Power adapter 1107.

Last edited by RT; Dec 25, 2008 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #28  
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now i just picked up a Mityvac. After reading this thread, I am wondering if i should return it or if the Mityvac still isn't that bad of a tool, just that the Motive is better? I'd like to bleed my clutch tonight since I am replacing the old hard line (leaking) with the AMS braided line.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #29  
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For bleeding a clutch line the Mityvac is fine. To do the whole brake system the Motive is the way to go.. I'd return the Mityvac and put that money towards the Motive.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #30  
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i am confused how one determines if a brake fluid is or isn't good for the street? Fluid should never be BAD for the street. I don't understand the interpretation of how it could be.
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