Swift Spec R's Reviewed!!!
#33
Evolved Member
iTrader: (66)
For people that might want to take on the task of swapping their own springs..... If you simply remove the entire assembly and run all four struts down to a shop like Firestone they will compress the springs, pull the top hats, swap the springs and reassemble for about $20. That is money well spent if you ask me. If you are a smooth talker..... You may even be able to get the spring swap free if you agree to get the alignment done at that shop.
Using the pronged autozone spring compressors is a real PITA and even somewhat dangerous. If you choose to wisely spend the $20 to have a shop swap the springs you could get the entire project done (painlessly) in under two hours.
Using the pronged autozone spring compressors is a real PITA and even somewhat dangerous. If you choose to wisely spend the $20 to have a shop swap the springs you could get the entire project done (painlessly) in under two hours.
#35
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
For people that might want to take on the task of swapping their own springs..... If you simply remove the entire assembly and run all four struts down to a shop like Firestone they will compress the springs, pull the top hats, swap the springs and reassemble for about $20. That is money well spent if you ask me. If you are a smooth talker..... You may even be able to get the spring swap free if you agree to get the alignment done at that shop.
Using the pronged autozone spring compressors is a real PITA and even somewhat dangerous. If you choose to wisely spend the $20 to have a shop swap the springs you could get the entire project done (painlessly) in under two hours.
Using the pronged autozone spring compressors is a real PITA and even somewhat dangerous. If you choose to wisely spend the $20 to have a shop swap the springs you could get the entire project done (painlessly) in under two hours.
I just pushed down on them and put on the top hat nut. Wasn't easy, but got'r dun!
#42
Evolved Member
iTrader: (49)
He sure will My fiancee loved them sitting on our kitchen island this evening! I will say, these Swift springs are lighter than I anticipated which is great; her Eibach ProKit spring box was much heaving.
I'll be removing my GSR KYB shock/Tein S.Tech spring combo in the near future for these Swift Sport springs and either a set of low-mileage GSR KYB's or MR Bilsteins. I looked into the Bilstein HD's but those things are just ridiculously expensive IMO. I also run a 24mm Whiteline rear anti-sway bar and Sumitomo HTRZIII tires along with some additional bracing.
I daily-drive the car and autocross during the summer so I plan to put this new setup to the test since my previous setup did earn me a trophy this past summer.
I'll be removing my GSR KYB shock/Tein S.Tech spring combo in the near future for these Swift Sport springs and either a set of low-mileage GSR KYB's or MR Bilsteins. I looked into the Bilstein HD's but those things are just ridiculously expensive IMO. I also run a 24mm Whiteline rear anti-sway bar and Sumitomo HTRZIII tires along with some additional bracing.
I daily-drive the car and autocross during the summer so I plan to put this new setup to the test since my previous setup did earn me a trophy this past summer.
#43
How would this set up perform/feel in comparison to say the Bilstein PSS9?
Or a coilover set like Ohlins DFV, Or Robispec'd KW V3's, etc., all the popular set ups?
I'm thinking this is the way to go, just haven't quite pulled the trigger yet..
I started off looking at coilovers, til I heard so much about how good this set up was.
How do you feel about the drop? I didn't really want anything lower than an inch less on either end, but does the Whiteline geometry stuff just fix it all the same?
Really just trying to decide between a good set of coilovers and this set up, to see if it's really worth the money or just overkill.
Or a coilover set like Ohlins DFV, Or Robispec'd KW V3's, etc., all the popular set ups?
I'm thinking this is the way to go, just haven't quite pulled the trigger yet..
I started off looking at coilovers, til I heard so much about how good this set up was.
How do you feel about the drop? I didn't really want anything lower than an inch less on either end, but does the Whiteline geometry stuff just fix it all the same?
Really just trying to decide between a good set of coilovers and this set up, to see if it's really worth the money or just overkill.
#44
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-general/303800-evolution-ix-na-production-numbers-updated.html
How do you feel about the drop? I didn't really want anything lower than an inch less on either end, but does the Whiteline geometry stuff just fix it all the same?
Really just trying to decide between a good set of coilovers and this set up, to see if it's really worth the money or just overkill.
How do you feel about the drop? I didn't really want anything lower than an inch less on either end, but does the Whiteline geometry stuff just fix it all the same?
Really just trying to decide between a good set of coilovers and this set up, to see if it's really worth the money or just overkill.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post6521500
#45
S2kracka - correct, the Swifts were lighter from their construction/metals used. A bit different that other companies springs. I noticed that too when I first did the swap last year.
Meevo - I went this route over going with coil-overs because I daily drive my car on top of racing it. IL and MI/OH/CT have similar roads and winter conditions (salt too). I had a friend run his DFV's in a MI winter and the next spring they were rusted solid together. No more adjusting could be done.
With my setup, I don't have to worry about that.
Coil-overs will allow you to custom setup every last detail on them. If it was a straight AX or HPDE/TT car those should be slightly quicker. Both the DFV's and Robi's are great, but they did not fit my needs (DD/winters). I'll make a tire analogy. Think of it like running Hoosier A6's v. the Z1s. The Z1s are great street tires and can run very hard, but in the end the sticker, dedicated A6's will be faster. But the A6's have a short life and cannot be driven everywhere, whereas, the Z1's can.
I think this is where my setup fits the best. You get great handling and you get the daily driving aspect.
Combined with the spring rates the drop on the Swifts, the drop on them is fine. Too low on our struts really hurts the geometry. Too soft - same. I have not had any issues on the Swifts in terms of drop.
What will you be using the suspension for?
Meevo - I went this route over going with coil-overs because I daily drive my car on top of racing it. IL and MI/OH/CT have similar roads and winter conditions (salt too). I had a friend run his DFV's in a MI winter and the next spring they were rusted solid together. No more adjusting could be done.
With my setup, I don't have to worry about that.
Coil-overs will allow you to custom setup every last detail on them. If it was a straight AX or HPDE/TT car those should be slightly quicker. Both the DFV's and Robi's are great, but they did not fit my needs (DD/winters). I'll make a tire analogy. Think of it like running Hoosier A6's v. the Z1s. The Z1s are great street tires and can run very hard, but in the end the sticker, dedicated A6's will be faster. But the A6's have a short life and cannot be driven everywhere, whereas, the Z1's can.
I think this is where my setup fits the best. You get great handling and you get the daily driving aspect.
Combined with the spring rates the drop on the Swifts, the drop on them is fine. Too low on our struts really hurts the geometry. Too soft - same. I have not had any issues on the Swifts in terms of drop.
What will you be using the suspension for?