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The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread

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Old Jul 11, 2010, 08:38 PM
  #181  
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Ok.. I'm reporting back:

8 track days under my belt now, and a total of 5 of them are on these Rotorpros slotted:

What do you guys think? There are obvious hot spots on one rotor, and on the other (more evident on one than the other) there are some miniature splits on the surface. Time to replace? There is no warping, and the car still stops like i'm dropping out a boat anchor

I am on 245/45/17 R6's, Raybestos ST-43's front/back, and forge motorsports ducts.





Thanks!
Old Jul 12, 2010, 05:04 AM
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I'm no expert, but they look perfectly fine to me. BTW, I'm on the same rotors. This is my 3rd set, so far I've been very happy with the results.
Old Jul 12, 2010, 08:50 AM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Solo II Evo
Ok.. I'm reporting back:

8 track days under my belt now, and a total of 5 of them are on these Rotorpros slotted:

What do you guys think? There are obvious hot spots on one rotor, and on the other (more evident on one than the other) there are some miniature splits on the surface. Time to replace? There is no warping, and the car still stops like i'm dropping out a boat anchor

I am on 245/45/17 R6's, Raybestos ST-43's front/back, and forge motorsports ducts.



Thanks!
I had microcracks like in your second pic in my Girodisc 2-piece rotors after just ONE track day.

You don't want to see what the OEM rotors I used for about 10 track days look like.
Old Jul 12, 2010, 08:55 AM
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I have those rotorpros too and have not seen track days but damn, its warped twice and have had to resurface twice. So i went back to stock.
Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:03 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by journeymansteve
I must be doing something RIGHT, I'm wearing out tires and brakes super super fast!

Using the cars capabilities

Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:04 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by dabizkit
I have those rotorpros too and have not seen track days but damn, its warped twice and have had to resurface twice. So i went back to stock.
More likely an unsuitable pad situation
Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:06 AM
  #187  
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What pads where you running at the time?
Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:10 AM
  #188  
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Hawks street pads, ceramic.
Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:13 AM
  #189  
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overheated - they can't maintain a good transfer layer - pulsing pedal

Turn them - goes away for a while until you overheat them again
Old Jul 12, 2010, 11:51 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by EGbeater
I had microcracks like in your second pic in my Girodisc 2-piece rotors after just ONE track day.

You don't want to see what the OEM rotors I used for about 10 track days look like.
hahaha good to know then. I'll keep putting these rotorpros cheapies to work!!

Time for my next pair of track pads. I've loved the Raybestos St43's!! Time for another set!
Old Jul 17, 2010, 08:24 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Solo II Evo
hahaha good to know then. I'll keep putting these rotorpros cheapies to work!!

Time for my next pair of track pads. I've loved the Raybestos St43's!! Time for another set!
What is "cheapie" $$ amount for rotorpros? My idea of "cheapie" was a Winhere brand, going to see how it fares probably soon since my stock OEMs are showing runout after 37000 miles plus 5 hard track days. $113 shipped for front rotor pair/set was too low to pass up, just to try them out.
Old Jul 30, 2010, 10:08 AM
  #192  
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Has anyone had good luck with Raybestos ST47? I still have a lot of meat left on the rear ST43's on my car and am unsure to just go with another front set of ST43's or try the 47s.
Old Aug 2, 2010, 06:51 AM
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Are there any Ti heat shields out there for the X's rear pad shape? Is there any need for them? I plan on heating up stuff more now with racing pads, so I want to do the obvious and easy things to manage that condition.
Old Aug 2, 2010, 07:42 AM
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Not that I am aware of. The rear pads to not typically get that hot to need them.
Old Aug 2, 2010, 06:57 PM
  #195  
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I've thought this over more, being a pretty solid Mech Engr (education, not current), that the steady state temp will be reached pretty fast with anything that's not a brick. Net, while they might provide a temporary amount of time delay, once up to temp, any shims won't do diddly.

The SS lines I have ready to put on, them's another tale! Also glad I have the air guides. While not ducts, it's better than stock. I think I'm equipped now as is to up the anty in heat and hope my red returns afterwards!


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