Choosing coilover spring rates for your EVO
I think they are very similar. Probably a similar sway bar setup, but the red car may have slightly higher spring rates, about 200# less weight, ~60whp more power, and aero. . .
Really, I would think Jarrods rates would be much higher to take advantage of the DF parts. Are you implying that you run high rates? Can they be found with a search or are they a secret?
Having suspension that can stretch its legs helps as well..... here you can see my front suspension nearly fully compressed.... but the inside rear still hasn't lifted. This is with a perrin rear sway bar set to max stiff.
Once I get my car up to 150mph on a road course and start seeing a thousand pounds of downforce, I may find that I DO need significantly stiffer springs. I do know that my setup is in the ballpark of what AMS ran on their Time Attack car back when they were running Ohlins. . .
Go karts lift wheels because they have a solid rear axle and if you try to make both rear wheels cover different distances (I.E. TURNING) you need one to be in the air, otherwise one is spinning.
A perfectly handling kart has the inside rear in the air throughout the corner till you apply power, similar to an evo.....
Scorke
Go karts lift wheels because they have a solid rear axle and if you try to make both rear wheels cover different distances (I.E. TURNING) you need one to be in the air, otherwise one is spinning.
A perfectly handling kart has the inside rear in the air throughout the corner till you apply power, similar to an evo.....
Scorke
A perfectly handling kart has the inside rear in the air throughout the corner till you apply power, similar to an evo.....
Scorke
As for the Bimmer lifting the front, thats better than our way. They have strut suspensions up front too, and if that one outside tire is "happy", then it will turn all day long that way.
Only because their chassis are designed that way. Rear-jacking chassis are what karts use.
As for the Bimmer lifting the front, thats better than our way. They have strut suspensions up front too, and if that one outside tire is "happy", then it will turn all day long that way.
As for the Bimmer lifting the front, thats better than our way. They have strut suspensions up front too, and if that one outside tire is "happy", then it will turn all day long that way.
I bet you if you were taking a somewhat similar flat corner you would have a couple of inches or rear lift with that much front roll, plus having that much rear bar is not helping.
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My junk is setup to be comfortable on the street and still be formidable at high speed events. I feel the bar helps in every situation where all wheels are on the ground which is most corners on a big track. If its responsible for one short sprint of tripod mode so be it.
I wasn't trying to put down your setup Jeff, as I'm quite sure it works for all that you mentioned that you have into it.
I was just pointing that typicallly evos with as much front roll in your picture picks up the rear in flat corners(your was in a banked turn) especially when running bigger rear bar that also accentuate rear lift.
. I was just pointing that typicallly evos with as much front roll in your picture picks up the rear in flat corners(your was in a banked turn) especially when running bigger rear bar that also accentuate rear lift.
So, you can basically set the front of the car up to the point that the outside front wheel is working optimally when cornering, and negate the inside front. It works great for the bimmer guys, because they do lift the inside front allot anyways. If it were a different suspension design, you could actually gain from keeping that inside front down, but with mac struts, you gain more by making the outside tire "happy" and not worrying about the inside. See what im getting at?
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Good thread, I'm surprised its not in the advanced section.
The EVO wheelbase confounds the inside rear lift problem. Its short and transfers weight front to back. The car is particularly nasty to the outside front tire and getting it to work is paramount to a good car. Probably the easiest route to 4 tires on the ground is some anti-dive geometry.
Lifting a wheel isn't good. 4 contact patches are better than 3 in the majority of situations. That being said, races have been won with intelligent use of droop limit. When I first got my hands on an EVO chassis (AMS TA1) job #1 was to get the inside rear down. The driven wheels of a car must be in contact with the ground for the entire drive train to work right. In this case, all 4.
With respect to choosing spring rates for the car, its subjective. We recommend baselines, but its far from gospel and I make my best effort to discuss each package with each customer. At the very least we work with our dealers to give them some basic options.
The EVO wheelbase confounds the inside rear lift problem. Its short and transfers weight front to back. The car is particularly nasty to the outside front tire and getting it to work is paramount to a good car. Probably the easiest route to 4 tires on the ground is some anti-dive geometry.
Lifting a wheel isn't good. 4 contact patches are better than 3 in the majority of situations. That being said, races have been won with intelligent use of droop limit. When I first got my hands on an EVO chassis (AMS TA1) job #1 was to get the inside rear down. The driven wheels of a car must be in contact with the ground for the entire drive train to work right. In this case, all 4.
With respect to choosing spring rates for the car, its subjective. We recommend baselines, but its far from gospel and I make my best effort to discuss each package with each customer. At the very least we work with our dealers to give them some basic options.